When one thinks of a nation’s capital, iconic world cities such as London, Paris, Tokyo and Buenos Aires come to mind, places which draw tourists from all around the globe. The capital of Australia on the other hand, has a very different level of status, tourism and acclaim both at home and abroad. Canberra’s history in fact is a strange one. When the Australian Federation was founded in 1901, a bitter and petty rivalry began between the two largest cities, Melbourne and Sydney, as to which would become the capital. To halt their persistent squabbling, a decision was made in 1908, to build a brand new city in between both, which would become the nation’s capital, with construction beginning 5 years later. So to put things simply, the city of Canberra is 100% planned, and as recently as 100 years ago, nothing existed on the remote territory it now resides on but for a few lonely dwellings and vast farm land. Even in today’s world, the capital of Australia feels curiously isolated from the rest of the country. It is approximately a three hour drive from Sydney, seven hours from Melbourne, ninety minutes from the coast, and surrounded by mountains. To keep things fully neutral between the states of Victoria and New South Wales, Canberra is located in a manufactured region named the Australian Capital Territory, or ACT, as it is more commonly referred to as.
The layout of the city is fascinating and unique, in that it isn’t really a city at all, in the known sense of the word, but rather a giant park with a collection of suburbs located inside it. You will struggle to find a greener looking metropolis than Canberra. Everywhere you walk you are encountered with wide open spaces, intermittently interrupted by occasional and spaced out governmental buildings. Canberra is built around an artificial lake named Lake Burley Griffin, named after Walter Burley Griffin, an American architect who originally designed the city (It is worth noting that when naming the lake they mistakenly assumed Burley Griffin was a double barrelled surname, when in fact Burley was his middle name. If I was ever fortunate to have something named after my good self, it would be the equivalent of calling such an object by the name of Patrick Sullivan!).
Another distinctive feature of Canberra is that, unlike most Australian towns and cities, it is not designed using the North American block system, but rather through a wheel-and-spoke pattern. Basically there are numerous circular and hexagon shaped roads throughout the metropolitan area, which act as giant roundabouts, with numerous subsidiary roads pointing outwards. Along with this unusual design, Canberra also has, what appears to the naked eye, the most conventional sized roundabouts per head of population in the world. You can’t travel two minutes without seeing one!
What is most bizarre about Canberra however, is that it doesn’t appear to have a centre. The Central Business district mainly consists of large governmental office buildings, and there is no obvious vibrant district where the bulk of shops, restaurants, bars and people congregate. To somebody not in the know, you would assume that very little happens in Canberra. Fortunately I had a friend who understands the entire city and its suburbs inside out and possessed a vast knowledge of where to experience great nightlife. During my time in the nation’s capital I enjoyed the Food and Wine Festival, dined at a restaurant which rivals the very best Melbourne has to offer, and had two monstrous nights on the beer. Canberra in fact, contrary to what people might think, has quite an energetic social, bar and food scene. You simply just need to know where to find it.
Once you get your head around the confusion illustrated above, Canberra offers numerous sights and activities to keep the body and mind occupied. Firstly there is the splendid ANZAC Parade, a wide long straight avenue dedicated to all Australians and New Zealanders who fought, perished and became wounded at war. The road stretches from Lake Burley Griffin, right up to the War Memorial, becoming the main focal point of the city from a tourist point of view. The avenue is coloured with brown granulated rock, giving the area a truly distinctive look. Along each side of the parade are various monuments constructed as a dedication to those who fought in various wars, such as the Korean War, Vietnam War etc. Not only is this area quite beautiful, but is also surprisingly serene, with very few cars utilising this long stretch. Perhaps this is Canberra’s way of paying their respects.
Located at the very top of ANZAC Parade is the Australian War Memorial, a museum dedicated to all wars in which Australians have been involved. Normally I am not hugely keen on museums, but this was a delightful exception. It contained exhibits on all the well-known wars which have decimated humanity, but also ones which I wasn’t even aware of, such as the Boer War in South Africa at the beginning of the 20th century. In addition, the actual architecture of this building is quite beautiful, and the view over ANZAC Parade from the top is quite mind-blowing. Best of all, this impressive display of information and memorabilia was absolutely free, a trait which is very common throughout Canberra’s tourist sites. Overall, I couldn’t have been happier with my couple of hours spent in what I would describe as a must-see attraction.
There are many other sites that Canberra has to offer, but as time was very limited, I focused on the whole reason Canberra was set up in the first place, to be the seat of the Australian government. I spent some time at Parliament House, a quite stunning piece of architecture, finished in 1988, and an example of how modern design doesn’t necessarily need to be so hideous and soulless. Inside I got a peak at the rooms where both the House of Representatives and the Senate engage in proceedings. What is most interesting about this construction however is that it is built into a hill, with grassland covering the top, allowing members of the general public the ability to stroll about and catch some rays, while Tony Abbott and the lads do business underneath. The thought process is that it is supposed to resemble the idea that nobody is above the people of Australia. Whether this actually plays out in everyday life in this country is a different debate entirely.
Perhaps the most endearing quality that Canberra possesses however, is the ability to escape to genuine remoteness within minutes. Only a two minute walk from the Australian War Memorial is the beginning of a beautiful hike up to the top Mount Ainslie and it’s picturesque views of the city, through proper bushland, reminiscent of what you would find in the countryside. Canberra is often referred to as the Bush Capital of Australia, thanks to its array of hiking and trekking opportunities which literally lie inside the city. No other major metropolis in Australia possesses this level of opportunity to the outdoor adventurer. Further afield is Namadgi National Park, which makes up 45% of the entire ACT, quashing the belief that this territory is literally Canberra and nothing else. I only had time to scratch the surface of this vast area, but there is no doubt that one could spend a week trekking and camping in Australia’s smallest territory, if one is that way inclined. A by-product of all this is that within only a few miles from the CBD, countless numbers of kangaroos can be found. They congregate in most of the suburbs, something which is not as common in the larger cities. A beautiful sight.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Canberra and experienced fantastic hospitality, something which will always enhance a trip. The city gets slated by a lot of people, and while it still has a long way to go to rival the bustling metropolis that is Melbourne, it is no longer merely a place where politicians and diplomats hang out. The city is evolving and beginning to discover a new identity, one with a bright future. I would recommend anybody with an open mind, and a desire to see something a little bit different, to check it out.
