Farm work in Broadford and Glenrowan, Australia

After an incredible two weeks in South Korea where I witnessed the very best in international track and field fight for gold, silver and bronze, in what was most definitely the best live sporting event I have ever attended, I treated myself to the most spectacular comedown imaginable. Yes, one day I was sitting track side for Sally Pearson’s wonderful gold medal winning performance for Australia in the hurdles, and sneaking into press conferences, putting questions to Usain Bolt et all, a few days later I was a member of the Australian agricultural community.

As I have explained in an earlier blog, in order to get a second year working holiday visa, a working holiday visa holder must complete 88 days of specified work (construction, forestry, farming , fruit picking, mining etc) in a regional area (anywhere outside of Melbourne, Perth, Sydney, Brisbane and Gold Coast). Back in July I completed 12 of these days, meaning that another 76 would be required by the time my first visa expires in order for a second year visa to be granted.

With construction being a no-go for me due to health reasons, the two main avenues available to me were paid fruit picking work, while living in a working hostel, or volunteer farm work under the WWOOF or HelpX scheme, where payment is zero dollars an hour, but accommodation and food is provided for free. I have heard nothing but horrific stories about fruit picking, and the unreliability of obtaining work, so with my motivation being to secure the rest of my 88 days as quickly as possible, rather than earning money, I chose the volunteer route.

So within hours of landing back into Melbourne airport after a long haul flight from Seoul, I arrived into Broadford, a tiny town one hour north of Melbourne, to begin work on a small hobby farm. To begin with, it wasn’t too bad. I had an unlimited supply of Internet, which is a rarity in the countryside it seems, and I could go back to Melbourne easily when needed, as I was just a short train ride away.

The work was quite varied. The main job was to dig trenches underneath various gates so that electric fencing could be installed. While the constant digging wasn’t easy on the body, it was the type of job I expected to be doing. However, I was given numerous other tasks that made me feel more like a slave rather than a helper. I had to feed and look after their pet horses, feed their dogs, cook them dinner occasionally, and worst of all, clean the gutters. While it felt like I was being a bit used, I wouldn’t have minded so much, had appreciation been shown for the labour I undertook.

The couple I stayed with consisted of an English man and a Finnish woman. While he was a very pleasant person to be around, nothing could be further from the truth with regards his other half. I found her to be the most condescending, belittling, rude, lazy and obnoxious of people, one who never made me feel like I was welcome, who never showed any thanks for the work I did, and indeed didn’t even bother to say goodbye to me when I left. There are too many examples of why I disliked her so much, but one particular occasion sticks out above the others. One evening, they had visitors over for dinner, and I was eating with them, as I did every evening. She proceeded to offer everybody on the table an alcoholic beverage, except for my good self, the one who had been cleaning her gutters, and indeed cooked her lunch on my first day working for her (usually it is supposed to be the other way around!!), despite being in a jet lagged state. After 17 days I was glad to leave, and she has proudly put herself up there into the top 2-3 worst people I have met since leaving Ireland in September 2010.  

So, three different farms, and just 29 days of work signed off. It honestly felt like I was destined to engage in farm hopping for the remainder of my 88 days. But as luck would have it, I found a family who owned a sheep farm out in Glenrowan that were looking for somebody to work for two months. Absolutely perfect as far as I was confirmed, and after a few phone interviews I left Broadford, and headed for Glenrowan, a tiny township, 2 hours north of Melbourne, famous for Ned Kelly’s last stand (more about that later).

I was very much thrown in at the deep end, and on my first morning of work, I had to assist in the marking of about 300 lambs, a process that these dumb animals certainly do not enjoy. While it is for their own long term good, the sight of 300 tails being chopped off certainly wasn’t something that I particularly enjoyed. I can now, ever so slightly, see why some people go vegetarian. Not me though, I love my red meat!

The family consisted of a married couple, and four children, ages 7, 5, 4 and 1. The first week I was made to feel very welcome and I was invited to eat with them most days. In addition they did so much with regards getting me settled. They provided me with my own private cottage, about 200 metres from their own house. Within this accommodation I had a kitchen, TV, DVD player, along with plenty of DVD’s and CD’s. Most importantly they provided me with a Telstra mobile broadband Internet stick, which I could recharge myself at my own convenience, allowing me to stay in touch with the outside world. I would also provide them with a shopping list every week and there were no restrictions on what I could request, and I had an unlimited supply of beer, for whenever I wanted to crack open a nice cold one after a hard day’s work. In addition they very kindly offered to drop me off at, and pick me up from, the train station every weekend, so that I could go back to Melbourne whenever I wished, a kind gesture that I very much appreciated.

However, once the initial pleasantries were performed, they made very little effort to include me in their daily life. It wasn’t like I was expecting to be eating dinner with them every night or anything, but an invitation to join them for some food and a beer once a week would have been nice. The reality was that they didn’t seem comfortable with the idea of having a stranger getting in the way of their living habits. This is of course understandable, given the fact I was the first helper they ever had, but it certainly made me feel extremely isolated, and was really just treated as a worker, and nothing else, which isn’t the whole idea of the WWOOF and HelpX scheme.

To say that I was very bored and lonely in the evenings would be an understatement. There was quite literally nothing to do, nobody to talk to, and the nearest town, Glenrowan, has a population of approximately 900, and is one of the most boring places I have set foot in, and indeed, probably would no longer exist, if it wasn’t for a complete mad man taking on the entire police force in that very town in 1880, wearing a dustbin on his head throughout. I have travelled extensively around South America as a solo traveller, and am very comfortable in my own company, and have endured many a 24 hour bus journey with nothing but a book and the Latin American landscape to accompany me, but this experience of solitude was a step too far. I simply could not recommend a single person to do what I did for 2 months. A couple of weeks are fine perhaps for a break, but nothing longer. The whole setup is something which would be ideal for couples, but awfully monotonous for a solo helper.

The work I did throughout my two months in Glenrowan was quite varied, consisting of various sheep related tasks, fixing and re-wiring fences, digging trenches, knocking cement off bricks, along with a lot of gardening tasks, which usually involved digging, digging, raking, and some more digging. Every now and again, I would help out at the host family’s friend’s vineyard, close to the town of Wangaratta, and would assist in maintaining the vines. Occasionally, as always, I was given completely pointless tasks, that any city dweller would deem to be a complete waste of time. The worst of these was painting the wool shed. This job took a total of 2 days, and for what? So that the sheep can admire the gentle brushstrokes while the wool is being ripped off their bodies? Besides the sheep and the shearers, not a single soul will ever set foot in that wooden building. There really is nothing worse than doing a task that you consider to have zero purpose whatsoever.

I can honestly say I have learned a lot of valuable life skills, and the experience is something I will very much value as I get older. However, the constant manual labour took a dreadful toll on my body. I developed tendonitis in my hands, a stiff back, a sore groin, and tightness in the hip area. My core strength wasn’t up to the level needed to undertake such long term constant physical labour, and with about 3-4 weeks to go my body broke down, and several trips to the physio were required, resulting in close to 300 dollars in fees paid. My insurance company back in Ireland will be getting a nice Christmas present off me that’s for sure! 

In addition to fighting through this discomfort, I also had to contend with soaring temperatures, consistently in the high 20’s to mid 30’s. Words cannot describe how difficult it is for somebody from Ireland to cope with undertaking such physical exertion in such uncomfortable conditions. My mind kept going back to that infamous football match at the 1994 FIFA World Cup in Orlando between Ireland and Mexico, where half the Irish team were barely able to jog in what was close to 110 degrees Fahrenheit. At least I had regular access to water, unlike the players that day!                         

Given I was working on a sheep farm, it would be wrong of me not to dedicate a paragraph to what is without doubt the dumbest animal on earth, the sheep. They are quite unbelievable. Just when I think that their idiocy has reached its limit, they find astonishingly stupid new ways to injure and kill themselves. The level of self-destructive behaviour they undertake knows no boundaries. Watching them trying to jump through (yes, through, not over!) a fence in a pitiful attempt to escape is quite an entertaining sight. They don’t seem to use whatever intelligence they possess, and will just follow the rest of their brain-dead buddies, and run away from anything that comes anywhere close to them. While chopping off their tails may be seen by some people as animal cruelty, it is 100% necessary, as these animals are far too stupid to not crap all over their tails. Without this human intervention these helpless creatures would suffer from widespread fly-strike, which is one of the grossest things one can ever witness.

Another creature that I had to deal with on a few occasions was the spider. Everybody I’m sure is aware of how dangerous some of these insects can be down in Australia, particularly the Red Back and Funnel Web, both of which have the potential to cause a massive coronary breakdown with just one bite. Even though many of the spiders are harmless (albeit large and ugly) it is best to assume that they are all venomous, as the chances are you won’t be able to identify a spider’s exact breed, unless you are quite knowledgeable in this area. On three occasions I came in contact with a large spider, assumed, but not confirmed, to be a huntsman:

1)      One evening, after a long day of work, upon entering my cottage, I noticed a hideous creature sitting on the door. I turned around very briefly to pick up something to bash it away with, only for it to have disappeared into the house, nowhere to be seen. It is a little unnerving knowing that such a thing was creeping around the house somewhere. But I came to terms with it and forgot about this eight-legged beast pretty quickly.

2)      A few weeks later, I went to put on a pair of shoes that I had not worn for a while. However upon entering my feet into them I noticed that my left shoe didn't quite feel right. So rather than tie my laces, I decided to take it off, and fix the sole of the shoe, which was what I assumed was the problem. When I went to put my hand into the shoe, out popped a gigantic spider, assumed to be a huntsman, probably the same one that had crept into my house a few weeks previously.

3)      Just when I thought it couldn't get any more ridiculous, the following happened. In the car, on the way to the Buckland Valley to go camping with the family who own the vineyard, I noticed a fairly stocky looking spider crawling up the back of my thigh. Unconfirmed whether it was venomous or not, but obviously I jumped for my life and demanded that the car be stopped immediately. This led to the three kids in the backseat, whose ages range from 3 to 8, going into a state of uncontrollable laughter, and I was the butt of all jokes for the rest of the weekend. "James is scared of spiders, nah nah nah nah nah". I think I'd have rather had the spider bite to be honest!

The spider does however serve one useful purpose, and that is to kill those awful flies that will just never leave you in peace. Rural Australia is full of them, and unlike the ones in Ireland, the Australian version of these useless creatures will not bugger off no matter how hard you try to get rid of them. They are relentless. They are persistent. They are on a mission to piss you off, and there is nothing you can do to stop them!

The final chapter in this tale goes to the infamous Ned Kelly, an Irish Australian bush ranger, considered by many Australians to be a folk hero and a symbol of Irish-Australian resistance against the Anglo-Australian ruling class. While this is certainly true, there can be no denying that the man was a criminal, a cold-blooded cop killer, and the way he is hailed in the township of Glenrowan is completely over-the-top. Reading about his life in the museums you would swear that this man was Mother Theresa of Calcutta! Glenrowan was of course, the site of the famous shoot-out between the Kelly Gang and the police back in 1880, and considering that such a significant moment in Australian history took place here you would expect quite a lot of interesting tourist sites. But the reality is that Glenrowan has made an absolute hames of it, and the town is not cashing in on the Ned Kelly story to the degree you would expect. There is a rather large Ned Kelly statue, one adequate museum, good enough to kill one hour, a second museum which is appalling at best, an embarrassing cheaply made animated reconstruction of the Siege of Glenrowan story, which the delusional gentleman at the cashier compared to Disneyland, and then a few random sites around the town, including the actual site of the Ann Jones Hotel where the shootout occurred. All that exists on this site now is an unused field, and a small sign to indicate that a historic event took place here. I dedicated three hours to immersing myself in the Ned Kelly story, and by the end I was running out of things to do.

So I have come to the end of my 3 months of regional work. While I learned a lot, being honest, I did not enjoy my time in rural Australia. But the whole ordeal was a means to an end, and last Wednesday my second year visa was granted, allowing me to live in Australia until at least December 2012. Now I am back in Melbourne, and am in the middle of the tedious process of starting all over again, and trying to get re-settled into the city. Notwithstanding the farm labour, 2011 has been an awesome year. Here’s to an even better 2012.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

Daegu, South Korea

After five days in Seoul, I set off on a 2 hour bullet train journey southeast to Daegu to attend the 13th IAAF World Athletics Championships. The competition began in 1983, and now takes place biannually, bringing the very best in world track and field together over 9 days of competition. In terms of global television viewers, the championships are the third largest sporting event in the world, after the Summer Olympic Games, and the FIFA World Cup, and this year's edition is the first time the event has taken place on mainland Asia.

The championships got off to a rather bizarre start when a sprinter by the name of Sogelau Tuvalu took to the start line for the preliminary round of the Men's 100 metres. Just 17 years of age, and weighing over 20 stone, Tuvalu, a shot putter from American Samoa, was entered to compete against some of the fastest men on the planet (Don't ask me why he was entered for this particular event!). His training regime for the championships was reported to be an intensive one month programme, and he entered the starting blocks not wearing spikes, a serious rookie mistake for a sprinter. As the gun fired, this well built chap was lazy out of the blocks, recording the slowest reaction time of all seven runners. As it turned out, this was of little importance, as the Samoan could have jumped the gun by a whopping four seconds and still finished at the rear of the field. The poor man was completely out of his depth and eventually, after what felt like a painful eternity, crossed the finish line in a time of 15.66 seconds, a new personal best. I was personally close to tears of laughter watching this, but one has to ask the question, is there not somebody in the whole of American Samoa who can run 100 metres quicker than this? 15.66 would struggle to be competitive in a girls Under 12's Athletics Victoria track meet!

However, the endeavors of Sogelau Tuvalu were quickly forgotten once Usain Bolt took to the stage. The multiple Olympic and World Champion and world record holder for 100 metres and 200 metres was understandably the star attraction for many casual fans visiting the stadium, and was fully expected to win gold in the blue-ribboned event, the men's 100 metres. However, as has been widely publicised by now, Bolt made an absolute hames of the start in the final and reacted before the starting gun was even fired, recording a negative reaction time. Under the current rules an athlete is disqualified if he/she false starts once. No second chances. The entire stadium literally gasped at once when the red card was shown to the showman from Jamaica, and there were even a few spectators who got up and exited the stadium before the race took place. There has since been too much talk about the false start rule, and the fact that the IAAF are even considering changing it, shows nothing but pure disrespect to every other sprinter in the competition. Just because the most famous athlete in the world was unable to control himself for a few split seconds does not justify modifying the rules. There have been lots of sprinters who have false started in major competitions before Bolt, and not an eyelid was batted. The rules are the same for everybody, no matter how fast or slow, popular or unknown somebody is. The person I sympathise with the most during all of this is Johan Blake. The man became world champion and yet his achievement was completely overshadowed by nonsensical debates about the fairness of the false start rule!

However this was one of the few low points of Daegu 2011, a championship which provided many memorable moments and performances. Firstly, there was Sally Pearson's stunning gold medal run in the women's 100 metres hurdles. The Australian stormed to victory in a blistering time of 12.28 seconds, the fastest time since 1992, putting her fourth on the all time list. However, without trying to say too much, in the eyes of most people this was a world record performance.

If Pearson provided the performance of the week, then the women's and men's 400 metres provided arguably the races of the championships. In the women's event, Amantle Montsho of Botswana and Allyson Felix of the USA went toe to toe down the home straight. Felix closed significantly towards the final stages, but Montsho held on to claim the gold ahead of the popular American in a personal best of 49.56 seconds, with Felix also recording a lifetime best with 49.59. In the men's race, Kirani James, from tiny Grenada, took the gold medal just days before his 19th birthday, in a personal best time of 44.60 seconds, overtaking disgraced American LaShawn Merritt in the last 10 metres of the race. For athletics fans this was the right result given Merritt's controversial past, having recently served a 21 month doping ban.

Another highlight of the championships was the emergence of European sprinting. Kevin Borlee of Belgium took a well deserved bronze medal in the men's 400 metres, Christophe Lemaitre claimed the bronze in the men's 200 metres, running a sensational 19.80 in the process, and most significantly of all, Dai Greene of GB took gold in the men's 400 metres hurdles, beating everybody around him from the USA and the Caribbean. Who says Europeans can't sprint eh?

Other memorable moments included the men's 10000 metres, where unheralded Ethiopian Ibrahim Jeilan stunned the overwhelming favourite Mo Farah of Great Britain with a devastating finishing kick over the final 100 metres; the men's 200 metres, where Bolt finally got his act together and took the gold medal in 19.40 seconds, one of the quickest times in history; the women's 400 metres hurdles, where Lashinda Demus came within just 0.13 seconds of the world record on her way to gold for the USA; the women's high jump which saw a great battle between Anna Chicherova of Russian and Blanca Vlasic of Croatia, with the former snatching the title on count back after both athletes cleared 2.03 metres; the men's 4x400 metres relay, where the South Africans came extremely close to defeating the perennial victors, the USA in a thrilling race; and the men's 3000 metres steeplechase, not so much for the race, as it was possibly the most mundane of Daegu 2011, but rather for Ezekiel Kemboi's antics as he crossed the finishing line from lane 7, and proceeded to spend the next five minutes doing what can only be assumed to have been a poor form of Kenyan dance!

The medals table was topped yet again by the USA, who claimed 12 gold, 8 silver and 5 bronze. To say that I was sick of hearing the Star Spangled Banner would be a gross understatement. To make matters worse, I had to endure the Russian national anthem on 9 occasions, and Kenya's a further 7 times. With 28 of the 47 gold medals going to these three countries, I became increasingly desperate to hear something else, anything else. I don't think I've ever been so happy to hear God Save the Queen. Anything but the Star Spangled Banner please!

From an Irish perspective there were some fantastic performances, along with some disappointments. The most impressive achievement was by Deirdre Ryan in the women's high jump. Less than one month before the championships she jumped an Irish record of 1.93 metres, which gave her the B-Standard for Daegu. In the qualification round she went better and cleared 1.95 metres, giving her a place in her first global final. In the final itself, she cleared 1.93 metres at the first attempt and was agonisingly close to clearing 1.97 on her final attempt. She finished the competition in a tie for 6th place, the best ever performance by an Irish high jumper in the history of the world championships. Ryan's performance also is living proof that B-Standard athletes should not be overlooked, as is done so often by the Olympic Council of Ireland, when selecting the Irish team for the Olympic Games. Deirdre Ryan didn't achieve the A-Standard before the championships, and if such strict criteria was imposed for Daegu 2011, then we would never have witnessed an Irish athlete mix it with some of the all time greats such as Blanca Vlasic and Anna Chicherova. Hopefully, this result will force a change of attitude among the powers that be ahead of the London Olympics next year.

Another Irish athlete who came of age in Daegu was Ciaran O'Lionaird, who qualified from both his heat and semi final of the 1500 metres, earning himself a place in the final, the first Irish man to qualify for the final of the metric mile since Niall Bruton in 1995. The "Bullet with the Mullet" as he is affectionately known, acquitted himself well against his more illustrious opponents, and in the final, was not out of his depth, eventually finishing in 10th place. At only 23 years of age, there is a lot to look forward to from Ciaran over the coming years. Hopefully he keeps the mullet, it's become quite a hit in Korea!

The women's 4x400 metres relay provided another impressive Irish performance. The Irish quartet of Marian Heffernan, Joanne Cuddihy, Claire Bergin and Michelle Carey smashed the Irish record by almost three seconds, recording a time of 3:27.48. This placed the team 12th in the World, just 1.47 seconds off qualification for the final. And considering there was a mix-up at the start where time was lost, there is certainly more that can be taken off that national record, perhaps at the London Olympics next year, which Ireland are now well on their way towards qualifying for. Given our size, and lack of participation numbers, Ireland don't often qualify relay teams for major championships, so our 4x400 team finishing 12th in the world is certainly an achievement that can't be downplayed.

However there were also some disappointments for the Irish team. The silver medallist from the previous World Championships in Berlin, Olive Loughnane, struggled badly in soring temperatures and 88% humidity and finished down the field in 16th place in the 20Km Walk. Paul Hession was another athlete who had a poor championships by his own high standards. The Galway athlete has been a model of consistency over the last few years, narrowly missing out on the 200 metres final at Osaka 2007 (12th place), the Beijing Olympics in 2008 (10th place), and Berlin 2009 (10th place). However on this occasion, he could only finish in 4th place in his heat and failed to qualify for the semi finals.

However, the biggest disappointment from an Irish perspective centred around Cork sprint hurdling heroine, Derval O'Rourke. The two time European silver medallist and former World Indoor champion had high hopes of becoming the first Irish sprinter to qualify for back to back World Championships finals, after her 4th place finish in Berlin two years ago. O'Rourke had previously commented on how well her preparations had gone this summer, and how this was the first season in years that hadn't been interrupted by injury or illness. In the heats, everything looked to be going to plan, when she eased her way into the semi finals in second place, barely breaking a sweat. For her semi final I was sitting by the start line, the place where myself and some friends sat in Barcelona last year when she won the European silver medal, something that I was hoping would provide a good omen. However, when the women came out of the tunnel for the semi final, there was no sign of Derval at all, leaving myself with a feeling of pure disbelief. It wasn't until about half an hour later that I heard what had happened. When warming up for the semi final her calf tightened, and no matter what the physio tried, nothing could be done in time, and she was forced to withdraw. One can't help but feel devastated for her, considering how much time and energy would have gone into preparing for these championships, only for it all to be taken away by cruel bad fortune. As it turned out 12.84 seconds was good enough to qualify for the final, a time that Derval would have been expecting to run without any problems. While a medal would have been highly unlikely, given the times ran by the top 3 athletes, there's no doubt that she would have been competitive and ranked highly. But these things happen in sport, and she will no doubt come back stronger for it. Hopefully at the Olympic Games next year she will get the opportunity to show the world just how fast she can go.

There were many ups and downs for the Irish team, but I am absolutely proud of the efforts of every one of them, and it was a pleasure to be in Daegu to support them. I chatted to a few of them throughout the week and each of them were very pleasant and friendly, and were very appreciative of the journey made to come and support them.

However, in Daegu, it wasn't just elite athletes who were the centre of attention, but also us supporters. I have lost count of how many times I was stopped inside and outside the stadium by Korean kids asking for a photo. On one occasion I was even asked to sign my autograph. The locals clearly thought I was competing at the championships, and I didn't have the heart to tell them the truth and disappoint them. It was absolutely surreal walking around the stadium, being bombarded for photos. Real paparazzi stuff! However this pales in comparison to what some poor chap from Jamaica had to deal with. Over 6 foot tall, dressed in jeans, and with a Jamaican flag hanging over his back, this man was nothing but a passionate athletics fan, and was certainly not competing at the championships. However, to the Korean kids, this personal description could mean one thing, and one thing only....USAIN BOLT! Within minutes of his first photo request, this man was surrounded by somewhere between 100-200 local children, all of whom were jumping up on him, flashing their cameras in his face, screaming like...urm....children, and basically hounding him. The disgruntled Jamaican could do nothing to get away from this fanatical onslaught, and with his friends just laughing their heads off and offering little help, he resigned himself to the fact that he was not going to be left alone and ended up signing autographs and getting photos taken for a solid 15 minutes. Korea is a strange strange place I tell you!

Another interesting thing about these World Championships was the Korean attitude towards security. Like any event, there are different sections in the stadium, entry to each dependant on which type of ticket you hold. Usually there are security personnel at a sporting event to stop somebody accessing an area of the stadium to which one is not entitled, such as the VIP section for example. Daegu 2011, had such personnel of course, it's just they weren't particularly good at their jobs. Throughout the championships I waltzed into the VIP section, and athletes section on numerous occasions without a bother in the world. In addition, on one particular evening, I was given a press pass, valid for only the 2nd of September. This gave me access to all the press conferences afterwards. During this I got to put questions to numerous athletes, a very enjoyable experience. However, as the old saying goes, give and inch and he'll take a mile. After being in the press conference the night before, there was no way on earth I was going back to sitting where I usually was, and so brought my now expired press pass with me and flipped it over so that the date wasn't showing. No questions were asked, as I eased my way back into the press conference room, seated myself in the front row, and proceeded to ask Mr. Usain Bolt about his possible plans to race the 400 metres after the London Olympics! To say that security was lax would be a massive understatement, but I would have it no other way. The beauty of athletics is that it is a very accessible sport to fans, where athletes are (barring the odd exception) very down to earth, and have no big egos. I've lost count of the amount of times I saw Steve Hooker sitting out in the non-athletes section of the stadium, sitting in amongst the supporters. This is something that made Daegu 2011 so enjoyable, and an aspect which will be more than likely lacking at the London Olympics next year.

While security in the stadium may be lacking, one thing that was very stringent in Daegu was anti-doping. Just a week or so before the championships started, the IAAF announced an unprecedented drug testing programme in which every single athlete would be subjected to one mandatory urine test and more importantly one mandatory blood test. On top of this, any athlete could be asked back again for another random blood test. This is of course on top of the normal testing that takes place after each final. It is without doubt the most comprehensive anti-doping programme ever undertaken in sports, and it is something that, in my humble opinion, should be adopted by all other sports also. There will always be those that will slip through the net of course, but it is now becoming increasingly more difficult for those who are willing to take a short cut.

The weather conditions that the athletes had to compete in cannot be ignored. Every day was like a combination of a sauna and steam room. Temperatures were consistently in the mid 30's and the humidity levels were regularly at over 80%. I've never experienced such discomfort in all my life, and the sweat was literally dripping off my face. And I was just a spectator. I can't begin to understand how difficult it must have been for the competitors, especially those taking part in endurance events. Much respect!

While athletics is not a very popular sport in South Korea, the locals of Daegu did a fantastic job in embracing the championships. Many people, myself included, were worried that the world's best would end up competing in front of a half empty stadium, but such fears proved to be unfounded. The stadium appeared to be over 80% full on every evening, and the atmosphere was absolutely magnificent. The Koreans have a clear lack of knowledge of the sport, demonstrated by the lack of cheering when household names such as Allyson Felix are called out, but they made up for this with their enthusiasm towards the event. Even the morning sessions had big crowds. I have watched athletics for 17 years and have never seen a morning session as well attended as these championships. Every kid in Daegu must have been in the stadium over the course of the week. The organisers of the event deserve a serious pat on the back, and these championships will no doubt leave a lasting legacy in Korea.

I have had a fantastic two weeks in South Korea, have met some brilliant new people, and have experienced a new culture. The people are among the most polite I have met, and regularly offered their help when they saw me looking very lost and confused, standing at the side of a road with a giant map in my hands. A perception of a country is largely based on what the local people are like, and South Korea achieved a grade of A1 in this department. It is a country that I cannot speak highly enough of and I hope that others who visited for the World Championships will take as many fond memories home with them as I have.

To Korea, kamsahamnida.

With Olympic Pole Vault Champion, Steve Hooker of Australia 

With GB legends Steve Cram, Sebastian Coe and Darren Campbell

With the tricolour in Daegu Stadium 

With some of the Irish team 

This lad was mobbed by local kids for autographs and photos. Guys, he's not Usain Bolt! 

Usain Bolt cruising through his first round heat in the 200 metres 

With 3 time 200 metres World Champion and 2 time Olympic Silver Medallist, Allyson Felix of the USA

With 2 time Olympic Javelin Champion, Andreas Thorkildsen of Norway 

In the front row for Usain Bolt's press conference after his victory in the 200 metres

Seoul, South Korea

The first part of my 15 day trip to South Korea took me to Seoul, the nation's capital. Excluding Ireland, South Korea is the 25th country I have visited, a nice landmark. However, despite all my adventures throughout my career as a part time traveller, it is only the second country I have visited in Asia, the first being Japan back in 2008.

The journey from Melbourne consisted of a 14 hour overnight layover at Shanghai Airport in China. Thankfully I was able to find a room in the airport hotel, allowing me to get a solid night of sleep, significantly reducing what would otherwise have been a painful test of endurance. Though my time spent in China was extremely minimal, my one observation was the unfriendliness and the rude nature of the local people. In all my life, I have never been spoken to in such an appalling manner by so many people in the one place. I wouldn't go so far to say that it has completely put me off the idea of visiting China in the future, but the country certainly has dropped down my must-see list significantly due to this experience.

Seoul, on the other hand, has left me with nothing but fond memories. It a city of beautiful contrast between old and new. It is so typically Far-Eastern in it's design, with the buildings displaying numerous flashing neon lights, and bright signs, each one a different colour from the next. The streets are usually thronged with people, similar in many ways to Tokyo. This is hardly surprising though, given the fact Seoul has one of the largest metropolitan areas on the entire planet.

However, it is the remnants from Seoul's past which are particularly fascinating. Being honest, due to my extended travels around Australia, I never got around to doing much research with regards what to see and do once I got to Seoul. However, whenever one has a lack of knowledge about an upcoming travel destination, you can always call on UNESCO to lend a hand. A quick look at the UNESCO World Heritage list showed me that there are 3 World Heritage Sites in the the Seoul metropolitan area. Barring the odd exception, any time I have been to a UNESCO World Heritage Site I have left very impressed, so I put my faith in them that they wouldn't let me down this time around.

The first of the three was Jongmyo Shrine, which served as the venue for royal ancestral rites in years gone by. The structure of the buildings are quite simple, but the fact it is located in a sort of urban forest, gives one the impression of being far away from such a large city and the place certainly has a very peaceful feel to it. Next up was Changdeokgung Palace, one of the 5 Great Palaces of Seoul. What makes this one shine above the rest however, is the fact it blends in so well with its natural surroundings and shows outstanding examples of traditional palace architecture. All of the many buildings in this complex are beautifully designed with some very picturesque artwork.

The final part of this UNESCO-fest took me to the nearby city of Suwon, just 30 kilometres south of Seoul. Suwon is best known to Irish people as the site of Ireland's heartbreaking penalty shootout loss to Spain at the 2002 FIFA World Cup. However the purpose of my journey was not to visit the stadium, and revisit all those painful memories, but rather to check out the Hwaseong Fortress. This construction was built in the late 18th century, and surrounds the old city of Suwon. The walls of the fortress have a total length of 5.7 kilometres, making for a long walk, painful at times given the high heat and intense humidity. Throughout this journey I came across numerous attractive facilities that were used in the past, such as observation towers, shrines, gates, and small castles. The most scenic part of the fortress is at the West side, as the walls climb steeply up the Paldal Mountain, allowing for some impressive views of the construction and of the modern day city of Suwon.

Another attractive part of Seoul I visited is Bukchon Hanok Village, a small area of traditional style Korean residential houses situated on narrow winding hilly streets. While it is not as beautiful as places like Paraty in Brazil and Colonia in Uruguay, it certainly is very pretty, and the fact that such traditional style structures exist in this day and age, in the centre of an ultra-modern metropolis is the main appeal of the village.

Another aspect of Seoul which deserves mention is its landscape. South Korea is a very mountainous country, and Seoul is no different from the rest of the nation. From the top of the N Seoul Tower, which stands on top of a hill, the views of the city are quite impressive, with numerous mountains surrounding and cutting through this enormous urban area. I was pleasantly surprised by the views that I witnessed.

One of the great discoveries during my time in Seoul was the Korean Barbecue, known to the locals as Samgyeopsal. This is no ordinary BBQ however. Basically you select a meal from the menu (all of which is in Korean, so it is usually a case of pointing and hoping for the best), and within minutes a huge chunk of raw meat is presented to you on a plate. The waiter provides you with a scissors to cut the meat into small pieces. Next he throws a load of hot coal into the middle of your table and gets the flame started. A temporary grill is placed on top of this random BBQ which is located in the middle of where you are supposed to be eating, and then you are all set to cook the meat yourself. Stretched around the table is lots of other elements of the meal. There's lettuce, huge chunks of garlic, a pepper and salt mix, some sort of sauce, and a bunch of other random things which I couldn't even pretend to describe to you. Once the meet is cooked, you put a few pieces on top of a leaf of lettuce, mixed with whatever else you want. Finally you wrap the lettuce around everything, and eat it one mouthful. Absolutely bizarre stuff, but highly addictive. I certainly was impressed and went back to the same restaurant the following two evenings and ordered the same meal. However on one occasion I was dining alone, and the restaurant had a bizarre policy that the minimum order allowed was for two people. Just as well I possess an enormous appetite.

What is most endearing about Seoul is the amount of oddities you come across simply by strolling the streets. From the moment I arrived in Seoul Airport and was greeted by a large poster of Pierce Brosnan welcoming me to South Korea, I knew I was in for a few bizarre observations and experiences. Seoul is so wonderfully weird, and the following are some of the strange things I have come across in my short time in this city:

1) When looking for a place to eat one afternoon we wandered down a particular street. On this road there were no restaurants however, just jewellery stores, about 20 of them, lined one after the other. This surely has to be the most densely populated area of jewellery stores in the world!

2) At each subway station music blares loudly to signal that a train is about to arrive. The kind of music however is the type you would expect to hear when Rocky Balboa is making his entrance into the ring to tussle it out over 12 rounds with Apollo Creed!

3) In Seoul, it is perfectly acceptable to buy a beer from 7-Eleven, and crack it open once you've stepped outside the door and guzzle it wherever you see fit. Drinking on the streets in Korea is perfectly legal and acceptable.

4) There are many Irish people who have forgotten, or indeed may not have heard of Dunkin' Donuts. If my memory is correct, this US donut chain went out of business on the Emerald Isle in the early to mid 90's. In the USA it now merely exists, according to a few Americans I have met recently. However in Seoul, business has never been better. It seems that there is one on every corner in downtown Seoul, and from my observations, they appear to out number McDonalds by about three to one.

5) While wandering through the Bukchon Hanok Village, I started to feel peckish, and decided to go in search of somewhere to grab a quick bite. In the distance, on the other side of the road, I saw the word "Chicken". Intrigued, I marched straight over, in search of a much needed meal. However, upon my arrival, I learned that this was no restaurant, but rather the Seoul Museum of Chicken Art, consisting of the largest collection of chicken related paintings and sculptures in all of South Korea. Enough said!

6) When in Burger King one day (I need my daily intake of Western food, I can't be eating Korean cuisine three times a day!), having ordered my meal, the lady behind the counter presents me with my drink without a lid. Maybe a bit odd, but nothing that made me take much notice. Then, however, when I asked for salt, she proceeded to grab a plastic lid, which she had not seen as necessary only moments earlier, and shook the salt into it. I found it impossible not to show my amusement as she handed me a plastic lid full of salt. The next day in McDonalds, in a different part of the city, the entire process was repeated.

7) In Downtown Seoul, crossing a busy road is the ultimate test of patience. On a couple of occasions I stood at the side of the road for five minutes. No joke. Pedestrians seem to be an after thought in this city, and it is actually easier to walk down into the subway, and cross the road underground, than it is to stand waiting for the damn green man to arrive!

8) While walking through the bustling Namdaemun Market, I could not help but notice the amount of people selling cooked food on the street. Within the market, there must have been approximately 50 different vendors selling to hungry passers-by. The strange thing though, was the fact that each of these had exactly the same cuisine on offer as the next. There literally was not one bit of variation. Surely there's a chance there for one of them to make a quick buck by putting something new on the menu!

9) While the Korean BBQ was a delightful experience, some of the other foods on offer in Korea are a lot less likely to be purchased by myself any time soon. Some of the stuff people eat out here is weird to say the very least, and in some cases doesn't even look like food at all. Many restaurants have pictures of their meals, and after one glance at it, more often than not I am on my way in search of the next restaurant. This process repeats numerous times until I inevitably give up and settle for McDonalds!

10) The favourite alcoholic beverage of many Koreans is Soju, a drink with a percentage of around 20-25% volume. Despite the fact Soju is so strong, a 300ml bottle is available for sale in all good 7-Eleven stores at a price less than that of a bottle of beer. It is quite amazing that hard liquor is available at the ridiculously cheap price of AUD$1.50. You'd swear that the South Korean government were trying to encourage alcoholism among university students. What's more, it tastes absolutely vile, somewhere along the lines of a mixture of vodka and sandpaper, and it is the world's greatest producer of all day hangovers!

11) Seoul is so very easy to get lost in. All street names sound and look pretty much the same as each other, in some cases the sign posting is brutal, and the maps are not detailed enough. In addition the subway system bizarrely has two Number 1 metro lines, which go to complete opposite ends of the city. It doesn't help when the burning heat and suffocating humidity of August time Korea is preventing the brain from concentrating properly. Getting around this city is challenging at the best of times, but when the weather is causing havoc to the body and mind, then it is almost inevitable that a first time visitor will get badly lost, which I did... on many occasions.

12) It is quite amazing that Seoul hasn't developed a litter problem, as rubbish bins are certainly at a premium in this city. When I ask the locals where I can find somewhere to dispose of my rubbish, they usually just take it off me. It's easier for them to just take it off me, than have to give me directions to the nearest bin!

13) As a general rule, if you are looking for something in particular in Seoul, then you are destined not to find it. I spent 2 hours one day walking through the busy shopping streets looking for an electronic store so I could purchase a plug adaptor. In that time, I walked past no fewer than a dozen mobile phone stores, all in close proximity to each other.

My time in Seoul has been thoroughly enjoyable and I would highly recommend anybody travelling extensively around Asia to strongly consider adding this charming city to the itinerary. Now I am in Daegu, where I will spend 9 days watching the IAAF World Athletics Championships, the main purpose of my journey to South Korea.

Until next time, take it easy.

Darwin, Mary River & Kakadu National Park, Australia

After 21 days of high intense travelling, I reached the Northern Territory capital of Darwin absolutely exhausted and in need of a few days of relaxation before undertaking the next adventure. As a result, my time in Darwin was spent mostly chilling out, and catching up with various things online. Having been in the wilderness for most of the previous 3 weeks, having access to the Internet now seemed like a serious novelty. However I did take some time to discover the small, though hugely sprawled city of Darwin.

Darwin has a population of 127,000, over half of the entire Northern Territory, and is very modern, mainly as a result of its turbulent past. Not once, but twice the city has been pretty much wiped out during the 20th century. On 19 February 1942, the Japanese bombed Darwin, causing severe damage to the city and killing 243 people. Over the coming years the city was rebuilt, only to be dealt another cruel blow 32 years later. In the early hours of Christmas morning, 1974, Cyclone Tracy hit the city, killing 71 people and wiping out almost the entire metropolis. Most people were left homeless, and an enormous evacuation was put in place to bring the vast majority of Darwin's dwellers to Sydney. The Museum and Art Gallery of NT has a very interesting exhibit dedicated to Cyclone Tracy, which puts across very well the devastation caused on what should have been the happiest day of the year.

However, Darwin is not a particularly interesting city. Because of the Japanese bombings and Cyclone Tracy, the entire city is made up of modern buildings, with very little traces of its history evident to the naked eye. Like any city in the world, Lonely Planet hypes up Darwin no end, listing a million and one things that a traveller can do, but the reality is that there is very little to do here that you can't do somewhere else. The city doesn't appear to have anything interesting that is unique to Darwin, and the place is used by many tourists as merely a base for exploring the various national parks in Northern Territory. In addition, the main street, Mitchell Street, is full of obscenely drunk backpackers at night (unfortunately, many of whom are from my own country), making the place a bit of an eyesore.

The main purpose of my stay in Darwin was as a starting point for a 3 day tour with Adventure Tours to Mary River and Kakadu National Park. The tour got off to a disastrous start for our tour guide Emma, as our brand new 4WD broke down literally minutes after leaving Darwin. Thankfully we got a replacement and without much delay we were again on our way. Our first couple of stops were not memorable in the slightest. We visited two different waterfalls in Lichfield National Park and went for a swim in the plunge pools. However, every tour bus in Northern Australia seemed to be there, following each other around like a bunch of attention seeking puppies. The appeal of these remote parts of Australia is to feel...well.... remote, not to be part of a Disneyland type circus!

However, this was the only disappointment of the trip, with the rest being thoroughly enjoyable. First up was a trip to an Aboriginal cultural centre where members of the local indigenous community told us a few things about their culture. One of the elder members, Eddie, showed us how to play a didgeridoo, a musical instrument played by Aboriginal people. He also informed us that there is no limit on the number of husbands or wives an Aboriginal man and woman can have. The entire tour group sat there in shock as Eddie proudly announced that he has currently got three wives, and a "European" on the side. When the group sat there with a slight awkward silence, he simply reassured everybody cheerily with the words "our culture".

Next we visited Mary River National Park for a one hour cruise along the river in a search to spot some crocodiles and other wildlife. We were not to be disappointed, as there were numerous freshwater and saltwater crocodiles located in the many billabongs beside the river, and also we spotted a few out of the water, chilling on the bank of the river. Some of these creatures were worryingly large, and indeed when one mean looking saltwater crocodile copped on that we were spying on him from just 15 metres away, he swiftly ran straight back into the river. While he is no Usain Bolt, this saltwater croc can certainly move fast. You wouldn't want to be completely out of shape if being chased by this toothy hungry beast! Even putting aside the incredible wildlife on show, Mary River in itself is extremely picturesque, with numerous billabongs, filled with tens of thousands of lilies, surrounding the main river.

On day two we entered Kakadu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, for both its cultural and natural values. It is Australia's largest national park, covering almost 20,000 square kilometres, roughly the size of Slovenia. The first part of Kakadu we explored was the Ubirr Art Site, home of many Aboriginal rock art paintings, some of which dated back to 20,000 years. The paintings are extremely impressive, and it is quite remarkable that they have stood the test of time so well. The subject matter of the rock art varies, with many of the paintings dedicated to the various wildlife in the region at the time, while others depict an aboriginal dreamtime story, of which white people are only told the children's version. We are not trusted enough in the Aboriginal community to be told the full versions of their stories, and given the almost total destruction of their culture by the British in the 19th and much of the 20th century, you can hardly blame them for being so secretive. At Ubirr we also got the opportunity to enjoy a stunning 360 degree panoramic view, which gives a good insight into the various landscapes in Kakadu National Park. From this viewpoint you can see woodlands, wetlands and also escarpment - an amazing variety.

Afterwards we briefly stopped at Cahill's crossing to view more saltwater crocodiles and from a distance, caught a glimpse of Arnhemland on the other side of the river. Arnhemland is one of the last true wilderness areas on Earth. It is owned by the Aboriginal people and a permit is required for anybody else, even Australian citizens, to enter this area. Furthermore, Aboriginal cultural law overrides government law in this region, so if you get hit by a spear, then tough luck mate!

Next up was a hike up to the top of the waterfall at Maguk. The scenery was impressive, and the various natural pools above the waterfall was surprisingly warm, allowing me to make a rare appearance in the water. Indeed this is one of the few areas in Kakadu that a swim is recommended, with most of the park's wetlands, rivers and pools populated by ravenous saltwater crocodiles, lurking patiently for the next idiot to go against advice!

Day three was the most adventurous of all. We visited both Twin Falls and Jim Jim Falls. While both areas are pretty beautiful in their own right, it was more the torturous journey to get to them that was particularly enjoyable. To get to Twin Falls, we firstly spent approximately one hour driving on one of the worst roads I have ever witnessed. This dirt track was narrow, bumpy, rocky, full of twists and turns and sometimes disappeared under water. It makes the road into the Bungle Bungles seem like the Pacific Coast Highway, and at times it was even almost as poor as the roads I experienced in Bolivia, except that in Australia the drivers aren't crazy -  a massive plus! Next we needed to catch a 15 minute boat ride along the river, followed by a 20 minute walk. To reach Jim Jim Falls, more stomach twisting travel was required along the so called "road", followed by a 45 minute walk, in which most of the time was spent hiking over massive boulders, one to two metres in height at times, with each and every member of the group petrified of loosing footing and inflicting massive physical pain on oneself.

So my 5 weeks of travel around Western Australia and Northern Territory has come to an end. I have witnessed so much immense scenery, seen an abundance of wildlife, and have met so many brilliant people. When travelling with the same people for 9, 10, 12 and in some cases 21 days, you begin to feel that you have known them your entire life, which makes it more difficult to have to say goodbye. Indeed that is what makes travelling so bittersweet. You meet so many like-minded people from different parts of the world, but have to say goodbye far too quickly, as everybody goes their separate ways. But I'm certain there will be many reunions to come in the future and the fond memories of the last five weeks will not disappear anytime soon.

I am now back in Melbourne, where I will catch up with some friends before making a monstrous journey to Seoul, to begin 15 days in South Korea. I better learn a few words of Korean!

Broome to Darwin, Australia

After a couple of days in Broome, mostly spent on Cable Beach, with a cold beer in my hand, myself and three of the others from my Perth to Broome tour group said our goodbyes to the rest of the group and set off on a 9 day adventure through the wilderness of the Kimberley region of Western Australia, finishing in Darwin.

The tour didn't get off to a glorious start. Nobody on the tour stocked up on alcohol before leaving Broome, and with the next bottle shop or bar being a solid four days away, the result was a much needed, though unwanted, detox. Perhaps it was optimistic to expect a bottle shop in such a remote location, such as the Gibb River Road, but I guess none of us were thinking particularly straight.

The Gibb River Road is a gravel road which stretches for 660 kilometres through the heart of the Kimberley Region of Western Australia. While not nearly as shocking as the roads I encountered in Bolivia last year, the "Gibb" still made for a very bumpy ride and attempting it in anything other than a 4WD is risky business. The most striking characteristic of this particular road is the amount of times it disappears underneath a river, stream or creek. It certainly makes for quite an adventure when driving through water is needed every 20-30 minutes. Indeed during the wet season (November to March) the road is closed as the water levels make it impossible to negotiate safely.

In total we spent 5 days traveling along the Gibb River Road, exploring the stunning scenery the Kimberleys has to offer. First up was a trip to Tunnel Creek, a large, pitch dark cave, filled with very cold water, inhabited by freshwater crocodiles. It was quite impressive, but my enjoyment of this natural phenomenon was heavily restricted due to the insane decision to walk through the caves barefooted. Every step was reminiscent of a very small, but very painful, cactus rubbing against my foot. Walking on sharp, tiny stones is not the best way to spend the afternoon, and after such hardship, I decided that, going forward, a grain of salt would be needed when taking advice from our tour guide, and my flip-flops would not be parting with me again!

After Tunnel Creek, the remainder of the first 5 days was spent visiting various gorges, which being brutally honest, got extremely repetitive. Don't get me wrong, most of them were extremely picturesque, but when you've been to 16 gorges over the space of a 21 day trip, you start to lose a bit of interest after awhile. It really is a sign that you are all gorged out when you start providing a critical analysis of each individual gorge visited. Having said all that, some of the gorges we witnessed were absolutely stunning, and thankfully didn't involve as much scuppering over cliff-edge rocks, like in Karijini National Park on my previous trip. The most memorable were Bell Gorge, Manning Gorge, and Emma Gorge. In addition to this gorge-fest, we got to see some Aboriginal rock art, located in some seriously remote places. Some of this artwork was extremely impressive, while others looked like the scribblings of a three year old child.

On day 6 however, the tour exploded into life, upon visiting Purnululu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Purnululu is best known for its main component, the Bungle Bungle Range, an area made up of hundreds of distinctive beehive shaped sandstone towers. The Bungle Bungles are approximately 99 times the size of the world famous Uluru (Ayers Rock), and in my humble opinion, about 99 times as beautiful. I am not being dramatic when I say that this remarkable landform is the single most picturesque thing I have seen in all of Australia, and considering how stunning this country is, that is quite an honour. What makes the Bungle Bungles even more remarkable is the fact that most people have never even heard of them, the fact it was apparently only discovered as recently as 1982, and the turbulent journey needed to get there in the first place. 55 kilometres on a winding, gravel road full of rolling hills, which took over an hour and half to negotiate and resulted in a few of the group feeling the need for a good cleansing of the stomach!

After the Bungle Bungles we visited Lake Argyle, the second largest artificial lake in Australia. Considering it is man made, I wasn't expecting to be particularly impressed, but the whole area exceeded my expectations greatly. The landscape is absolutely beautiful, and quite reminiscent of what I witnessed on the ferry between Wellington and Picton in New Zealand.We took a 90 minute boat ride through the lake, and went for a swim in the surprisingly warm waters, incorporating the occasional rock jump from a solid 7 metres high.

On day 8, we left Western Australia, and crossed the border into Northern Territory, an area around 10 times the size of Ireland, but with a population of just 230,000 people, with over half of those living in Darwin. Upon crossing the state border, we lost one and a half hours of our lives. Not one hour, not two, yes one and a half. I do find it a bit odd that they have a time zone 8.5 hours ahead of GMT, but no time zone that is 8 hours ahead, but I won't bother questioning their reasons! Another thing I noticed about the Northern Territory is the large indigenous population. Approximately 30% of the territory are of Aboriginal origin, compared to just 3% nationwide. Unfortunately this also presents a massive social problem, with many (not all) of the indigenous people loitering around the streets drunk. In the bottle shops in certain towns they don't sell full strength beer until after 5pm, as a way of trying to minimise the problem of drunkenness on the streets. It is not the nicest image to be honest, and it also gives the Aboriginal people, as a whole, a bad name. Two years ago, in a bar in Quorn, South Australia, I had a chat with some very pleasant Aboriginal people. It is sad that some people tar them all with the same brush, as they certainly are not all wasting themselves away. Far from it.

Throughout the trip we saw plenty of animals in the wild. Kangaroos pretty much anywhere. Rock Wallabies at Lake Argyle. A snake which was stupidly sleeping on the middle of the Gibb River Road, which our tour guide proceeded to pick up and hold by the neck, much to the snake's disgust. We also saw many different types of lizards hanging about on rocks at the various gorges we visited. However until day 8, I had still not seen a crocodile properly (with the exception of one underwater on the first day). Considering these were the animals I was most looking forward to seeing, and that I was in a big crocodile region, this was quite disappointing. However, all good things come to those who wait, and on the way out of Lake Argyle, I saw a big freshwater crocodile lying on the bank of a river, catching some rays. We also saw a baby crocodile, which our tour guide again decided to pick up for everybody to get a closer look. Clearly he is a big fan of Steve Irwin!

With regards to the people I traveled with on this tour, it was a very different type of group to the one from Perth to Broome. On the first trip, most people were within a similar age bracket, while on this trip there was more diversity in that department. Obviously this had some downsides, with there not being as many crazy sessions going into the early hours of the morning. But for the most part it was a nice group to travel with. Of the new people on the trip, the best were two very fun girls from New Zealand, a lad from Switzerland who adores his banter with a passion, and a very nice family of four from England, with two very pleasant teen-aged children. On the contrary, we had to put up with an incredibly irritating, strange, rude, know-it-all 13 year old kid from the Netherlands, who had the remarkable ability to be more annoying than an attention starved beagle puppy!

Our tour guide Adam, also deserves a special mention. Just days before the start of the tour he fell off the roof of the 4WD and broke his foot. Despite this, he soldiered on and was always positive throughout, something which was hugely admirable, if not a little insane. His relaxed, carefree, attitude to life in general, and his amazing ability to squeeze the word "anyway" into a short tale as many times as possible will not be forgotten in a hurry. He had great knowledge of the Kimberley region and appears to adore his job. Again, as with my previous tour guide Simon, I have no complaints.

One minor inconvenience was the extreme heat. Every day we were undertaking hikes and walks in temperatures well into the 30s. In the words of Johnny Cash (who provided the theme tune of our trip with Ring of Fire), it burns burns burns!

Overall, the tour was hugely enjoyable, and the scenery in the Kimberley region is simply breathtaking. The only suggestion I would have is for Western Exposure to create a bit more variety during the first few days of the trip, rather than visiting every gorge known to man.

I'm now in Darwin, where I will spend a few days before beginning yet another trip with Adventure Tours. This time a 3 day tour to Lichfield National Park and the world famous Kakadu National Park. Hopefully I will spot more crocs!