Colonia and Montevideo, Uruguay

The next part of my trip took me to the often forgotten South American nation of Uruguay. Ever since the age of 9 when I first developed an interest in sport I have had a strange fascination with this country. A tiny state with a population less than that of Ireland, sandwiched between the continental giants of Argentina and Brazil, who in spite of their size managed to dominate the world of football in the 1920´s and early 1930´s, winning the Olympic Games in 1924 and 1928, and the World Cup in 1930 and 1950. Certainly a nation who has punched significantly above its weight.

The first part of my Uruguayan adventure took me to the pleasant little town of Colonia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This city, founded by the Portuguese in 1680, played a major strategic role in the struggle against the Spanish conquistadors. Its well- preserved architecture perfectly illustrates the fusion between Portuguese, Spanish and post-colonial styles. Rather like Paraty this town is filled with old colonial buildings and cobblestone streets. It is a place of immense beauty and despite its UNESCO status doesn´t appear to be overpopulated with tourists, something which adds to the places´s charm.

After a relaxing afternoon in this delightful town I took a short 2 hour bus journey to Montevideo, the nation´s capital. Here I visited Estadio Centenario, the city´s main football stadium. This isn´t just any sports ground however, it is the birthplace of the Football World Cup, playing host to the first ever World Cup Final in 1930 when Uruguay defeated their bitter rivals Argentina by a score of 4−2. Eighty years on this stadium is showing its age a lot. Much of the exterior of the ground is decorated with graffiti, many of the seats in the stands are adequate at best and a far cry from what you would witness at Croke Park or Wembley Stadium. A few of the nosebleed seats are so dilapidated they are actually a health hazard, designed in the form of stone benches, with the spectators feet dangling over a ten foot drop.  In addition almost the entire stadium is completely exposed to the elements with just a tiny section of the ground with roof cover. But these deficiencies only add to the historical significance of the place. It gives one a sense of what it must have felt like all those years ago when footballing history was made.

The Centenario also has a very impressive museum dedicated to the history of Uruguayan football, with a significant section in honour of the 1930 World Cup held in this very city. I got a glimpse of the 1930 and 1950 replicas of the famous Jules Rimet Trophy won by Uruguay on both occasions. Sadly the original trophy no longer exists, stolen from Brazil in 1981 and rumoured to have been melted down.

Football aside, this city is a bit of a mixed bag. On the plus side there is the Chivito, a sandwich style national dish of Uruguay. The contents to this little piece of food heaven are: steak, bacon, egg, ham, cheese, served in a bun. Other ingredients such as grilled onions, mushrooms, tomatoes, along with almost any type of sauce can be added if requested. It is literally a steak sandwich with anything and everything to accompany it, and is so filling all you want to do afterwards is pass out.

A disappointing aspect of the city however is that it offers very little in the way of picturesque architecture. There is an ´Old Town´ district in this city, however it is very unremarkable and at times the buildings can be a bit of an eyesore. Certainly a far cry from the spectacular ´Gamla Stan´ in Stockholm.

The lack of beautiful buildings however did bring about a humorous piece of dialogue between myself and a local woman, in her mid to late 40´s:

Me: Where can I find the old town
Woman: This is the old town, you are here
Me: Really??
Woman: What are you looking for?
Me: Nice, beautiful buildings
Woman (Pointing at unattractive building currently being redeveloped): Beautiful old buildings all around, see?
Me (Confused): eh???
Woman: What you expect, this Montevideo, not New York!
Me: Is there anywhere around here that resembles the nice buildings in Colonia?
Woman (clearly getting her words mixed up): No, it very difficult. Colonia yes, nice buildings. Here it not possible.

In spite of the dour architecture my overall experience of Uruguay has been very positive. Good food and very welcoming and helpful people. If every country provides that then I will be one happy man.

Tonight I take a night bus and boat combo and arrive in Buenos Aires at 7.30am, to begin 3 weeks of tango, steak and wine.

Chau

Iguassu Falls, Brazil and Argentina

It has been a hectic few days. Firstly there was a monstrous 26 hour bus journey from Paraty to Foz de Iguacu incorporating a 3 hour layover in Sao Paulo bus station. A mainly dour trip was brightened somewhat by a couple of humorous moments. Firstly, during a 20 minute stop at a shop to get food I decided to purchase a pre-made sandwich from behind the counter. As I was in a rush to get back on the bus and not be left in the middle of some random town in Brazil it seemed like the most sensible option. After I submitted my request, the woman working behind the counter proceeded to take my sandwich away for 5 minutes. I stood there in confusion wondering what sort of great things they might be doing to enhance my lunch. I attempted to communicate to the woman that I needed my sandwich ASAP but to no avail. Eventually after what seemed an age the sandwich appears, merely cut in half and placed on a plate. If it takes 5 minutes to do that then somebody is clearly being paid too much!

The following morning we again stopped for a short time to get some breakfast. Disappointed by the lack of bread available I reluctantly requested a pizza for as it was one of the few things on offer that looked edible. The young lady working behind the counter then hands me the frozen pizza. In a state of confusion I ask her would she be kind enough to perhaps heat up my pizza for me as I am rather hungry right now and would rather not wait to get to my hostel in 3 hours time to eat it. Eventually she got the point!

The long journey was worth it however as the reward was simply breathtaking. I had heard great things about Iguassu Falls but I could never have imagined the sheer natural beauty that the World´s largest waterfalls had to offer. In total there are 275 waterfalls along 2.7 Kilometres of the Iguassu River which separates Brazil and Argentina. The falls can be accessed from both the Brazilian and Argentinian side of the border both offering a different experience. The Brazilian side provides the snap happy tourist with a great overview of the falls, while the Argentinian side allows you to get up very close to many of the falls and literally stand over some of them. The most impressive part of Iguassu Falls is Devil`s Throat, a U-Shaped, 82 metres high, 150 metre wide and 700 metre long cataract. Two years ago I was extremely impressed by the wonder of Niagara Falls, but after visiting Iguassu, it is merely its scrawny little brother in comparison.

Foz de Iguacu also provided another Wonder of the World - The Brazilian All You Can Eat BBQ! For 15 Reais (less than 7 euro) we were provided with a plate. After that it is all fair game! On about 40 occasions throughout our meal the waiters would come over to our table with freshly cooked meat and ask would we like to top up! It was all far too delicious that it was actually impossible to refuse until one felt physically ill from overeating. In addition the waiters had an incredible ability to make you feel extremely guilty for refusing the meat they were offering. They seemed to take the rejection personally. There was so many various kinds of meat available. You name it, they had it and after sampling everything available I fell into a serious food coma.

Currently I am sitting in Buenos Aires bus station awaiting an incredibly overpriced one hour ferry to the Uruguayan town of Colonia. But before I go let me tell you quickly about my 18 hour bus journey from Iguassu Falls to Buenos Aires with a company called Cruzeiro del Norte.

Cruzeiro del Norte don`t do lagers but if they did they would probably be the best lagers in the world. This bus was incredible. In return for 55 euro you receive a seat that reclines so far back that a decent sleep is actually possible. They also provide a pillow, a blanket, wine, champagne, dinner and breakfast. While the dinner is far from what I described above it is very much edible and far superior to the 'food' I was subjected to on my British Airways flight to Rio de Janeiro. All in all as 18 hour bus journeys go you will be hard pushed to find one better than what Cruzeiro del Norte provide.

Soon I will return to Buenos Aires but for now Uruguay awaits me.

Slan

Paraty & Trindade, Brazil

The next stop on my South American odyssey took me to the old colonial town of Paraty. The ´Centro Historico´ is a beautiful sight with its picturesque ancient buildings and churches and its streets made out of cobblestones so large and uneven that with a few alcoholic beverages consumed a twisted ankle becomes a distinct possibility. Paraty is very much a throwback to the more simpler times of the 18th Century, when this town was an important port for exporting gold to Portugal.

However it has to be said that this place is the worst signposted town that I have ever witnessed. Upon arriving at the bus station I was handed a map without many street names listed. It reminded me of some of the infamous college notes (most notably for Organisational Behaviour) in which much of the material was left blank and you were required to fill in the gaps yourself. Not convenient it has to be said, and I found myself going around in circles for a good 30 minutes before I found my hostel. My cause wasn´t helped by the fact there are no signposts on many of the streets making it impossible for an alien like myself to have any idea which way to proceed.

Another bizarre experience was encountered yesterday when I went in search of a bank. In my very poor Spanish (yes I know they speak Portuguese in Brazil!) I asked numerous locals ´Donde este una Banco?´. On each occasion the reply was ´Que Banco?´. I am half way around the world in a strange country where I can speak about 3 words of the local language, I really am not going to be fussy as to which bank provides me with ATM services!!

Today I took a short, albeit bumpy bus ride to the spectacular sleepy beach village of Trindade. After seeing the incredible scenery Ilha Grande had to offer my expectations were very high, but this ´praia` as they say in Portuguese did not disappoint. The surroundings are impressive with the Mata Atlantica rain forest overlooking its many beaches.

Tomorrow I set off on the first of many marathon bus journeys that I will be undertaking on this continent. A 24 hour journey to the Argentine border to see the world famous Iguassu Falls, the final part of the Brazilian leg of my trip. My Ipod is fully charged, and Michel Thomas´s Spanish lessons will be getting plenty of airplay. The language barrier has reached a level of farcical proportions in Brazil and I cannot let that happen for the rest of my South American trip.

Bye for now.

Ilha Grande, Brazil

As I set off along the southern coast of Brazil on my journey to Ilha Grande, the first thing I noticed was the severe poverty on the outskirts of Rio de Janeiro. It is a buzzing city with such a bright future, especially with the 2014 World Cup and the 2016 Olympic Games being held in the city. However after seeing the shocking living conditions that many of the Rio natives have to endure it makes you wonder do the Brazilian government have their priorities in order.

The journey to Ilha Grande was long, beginning with a spectacular bus ride along the coast to Angra dos Reis, where after a 3 hour wait I boarded a catamaran which took me safely to the ´Big Island´, its English translation.

However it wasn´t all a bed of roses. No sooner had I checked in to my hostel I was greeted with a relentless thunderstorm, which lasted throughout the next day, subjecting me to a hammock and Ronnie Delaney´s autobiography for the entire day.

My patience was eventually rewarded when the sun finally arrived, giving me the opportunity to explore and do proper justice to this haven for scenery and nature. The island is simply stunning, with its numerous trails and hikes through tropical rain forests and spectacular beaches, none more stunning than Lopes Mendez, considered by many as the most beautiful in all of Brazil. There are times on this island, when in the middle of an exhausting trek, you would be forgiven for thinking you are the only person on the planet, with nothing but the sounds of birds chirping and monkeys growling and God knows what else to accompany you. I even encountered a snake during my journey into the forest. Needless to say I turned back in the direction I came from until it migrated away!

There are about 5,000 people living on this island, many of whom live in the charming, if not a little tourist orientated, village of Vila do Abraao. No automobiles are allowed on this island. The only method of transport is by foot, or by boat. And I was thanking my lucky stars that these boats were in such ready supply. After a 1 hour trek to a small beach I discovered I was the only one there. I was promised that there would be regular boats there to bring me back to the village. However 15 minutes I was there and no sign of it. Just as I had resigned my faith to having to trek all the way back to Abraao, this taxi boat arrives out of nowhere. How much I ask. 10 Reais (about 4.50 euro)!! For a 30 minute taxi boat home! Serious value for money!

Tomorrow I leave this gorgeous island and continue my journey on to Paraty. But for now I have a steak and chips and a delightful Caiprinhia waiting for me.

Later

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Rio de Janeiro - what a place to start my adventure around planet Earth. They call it ´The Marvellous City´ and after taking a trip up Corcovado, where the famous Christ The Redeemer statue stands tall, I could see why the Brazilians think so highly of this buzzing metropolis. The view from the top of this mountain is sensational. Dozens and dozens of mountains, beaches and the largest urban forest in the world provide a beautiful natural landscape, something which I have never seen in a large city before.

However there is much more to this city than just the amazing scenery. There is Ipanema Beach. A place where the locals like to kick back, relax and enjoy the more pleasant aspects of life. Whether its beach football, beach volleyball or simply sitting on the beach drinking from a coconut there is plenty to keep one´s self occupied. There is also Copacabana Beach, where I encountered a gentleman by the name of `Fabinhio`. This lad performs the art of `keepy-uppy`, not with a football however, but with anything else. I stood there in amazement as he showed such impressive control of a Coconut, an egg, and even a small sweet which resembled a skittle. A very admirable performance indeed. He certainly thought so anyway as he proceeded to inform me that as he has put on such a good show he deserves monetary compensation for his troubles. He politely requested that I pay him 100 reais (about 45 euro) for his artistry skills. I gave him 10 reais for his troubles...

As anybody with even the smallest knowledge of Football will know that to Brazilians it is more than just a game, it is practically a religion. I had the pleasure of experiencing this first hand when I visited the 2016 Olympic Stadium for a crunch game between Flueminese and Corinthians, first versus second in the Brazilian Serie A. The stadium may have been only half full, with 23,000 people in attendance, but the noise generated by these fanatics from Rio was about  ten times louder than what you would hear at a jam-packed Croke Park. They spent the entire 90 minutes singing, chanting, booing, cheering, abusing the referee and so on and so forth. The atmosphere is something I have never experienced at any sporting event before. It does not bare thinking what it will be like in 2014 at the Maracana when Brazil kick off the FIFA World Cup.

There were a couple of disappointments however. Firstly the Maracana, one of the most famous football stadia on earth closed for redevelopment just one week before I arrived. Secondly, the overcast weather today spoiled what should have been an incredible view of the sunset over Rio from the top of the Sugar Loaf mountain.

A few bizarre things about Rio before I go:

1) There is no need to stand at a bus stop here. You simply hail a bus in the same way that you would seek a taxi at 3am on a Saturday night in Temple Bar.
2) There appears to be a strange policy of job creation here in Rio. On the bus, the driver doesn't take the money off you. No no, there is a second employee hired to do that particular task, so the driver can fully concentrate on his appointed job. The supermarket would be the craziest example of jobs for the sake of jobs. On each till, one employee scans the goods you are buying and takes the money from you. A second employee packs your goods neatly into plastic bags for you. Finally a third employee stands there overseeing the process to ensure everything is being performed appropriately. It must be part of some policy to try keep the unemployment rate as low as possible in Brazil!!

Tomorrow I head off to Ilha Grande, where I hope the weather will be kinder than it was today.

Later