San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

After my aimless wandering around the narrow streets of Valparaiso I embarked on a 25 hour mega-journey by bus to San Pedro de Atacama, in the Andes of Northern Chile, located at an altitude of 2400m above sea level. Not that I deserve any sympathy but the journey was mentally taxing and there was a lot of time dedicated to counting down the hours until I arrived at my welcome destination. Some of the trip was spent reading Paula Radcliffe's autobiography and while it is a great read and for all the respect and admiration I have for the women's world marathon record holder it did little to ease my boredom and longing to be off that automobile. The scenery was quite impressive at times with most of the 25 hours spent travelling through the Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world. There were parts where there was absolutely no vegetation whatsoever. What is amazing about this desert however is its proximity to the Pacific Ocean. The desert runs up through the north of the country hugging the coastline throughout. It was a unique experience witnessing the desert literally reach out and touch the sea. One negative aspect of the Atacama however was the amount of litter at the side of the road, the culprits obviously being people throwing their disgusting waste out of the windows of their cars. Given how remote some of the areas that have been polluted are it is hard to imagine it ever being cleaned up.

San Pedro in itself is a nice desert town with cute old style buildings. However it is completely saturated with tourism comprising numerous restaurants and gift shops along with an endless amount of tour agencies. Not that I have a problem with that, as that would be hypocritical of me given I am a tourist myself, but the town itself doesn't really reflect what real Chile is like. Supposedly some of the locals aren't too pleased about the huge influx in tourism over the last 10 years.

The main purpose of San Pedro to the tourist however is as a stepping stone to the amazing landscapes that surround it with most attractions being part of the Los Flamencos National Reserve. My first afternoon in San Pedro was spent sandboarding in the nearby Valle de la Muerte (Death Valley) which contains a large sand dune approximately 50 metres in height. At the top I strap my feet into the board and away I go, down a steep slope which must be very close to 45 degrees. I have never skied nor snowboarded in my life so it was to no great surprise that I had severe difficulty in getting my turns up to scratch, and as a result there was some pretty spectacular falls. All in the name of good banter though, that is until the following day when delayed onset muscle soreness started to kick in.

Afterwards the tour guide brought us to Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) for sunset which gets its name due to its moon-like scenery offering stunning clinal and anticlinal formations in a perfectly barren landscape. At sunset our tour guide Sebastian provided us with the Chilean alcoholic beverage Pisco Sour (Chile and Peru both claim it), a delicious lemon flavoured drink with 20% volume. It is the type of refreshment one would need to be careful with as it tastes like a soft drink and goes down a treat, but too many of them and you will be on your ear! Speaking of Sebastian, he is without doubt the coolest tour guide I have ever had. A native of Chile, he is the quintessential hippie, the spitting image of Bob Marley. From the top of a high rock as the sun set over the Moon Valley, while guzzling a glass of Pisco Sour he presented us with the craziest theories on how certain mountains and rocks were formed, one of them being a fight between two mountains who were brothers over some random female mountain. Ridiculous stuff but very entertaining. He also loved to speak in a posh English accent from time to time.


The following day I was up at 4am for a tour to the Geysers del Tatio. The reason for beginning at such an unearthly hour was so we could arrive in time for sunrise. However as we neared our destination the driver rammed the bus into a rock in the very bumpy road and butchered the suspension in the process. Supposedly the element that connects the two wheels to each other (I know very little about cars!) was hanging on barely which resulted in us driving the last few miles at four hour marathon pace and consequently we missed sunrise. One middle aged German man was not impressed and gave the tour guide hell for about 10 minutes. Despite missing the sunrise the Geysers were still an incredible sight. Located at 4300m above sea level these are some of the highest geysers in the world. There are approximately 80 in total. Although the height of the geyser eruptions are quite low with the tallest being only 6 metres high, the steam columns can reach heights of over 20 metres.

After breakfast at the geysers we were all offloaded onto various other tour buses for the rest of the trip as our vehicle was in no state to continue. It actually worked out really well in the end as our tour guide on the new bus was far superior to the moody chap who shrugged his shoulders when questioned by the angry German man. The remainder of the tour was very enjoyable. First we visited a volcanic river at 4300 metres high, followed by a remote backward town called Machuca where I tasted some delicious barbecued llama. Afterwards we admired some Vicuñas (Andean Camels) in the wild. Finally we visited Putriama Valley, home of hundreds of cacti and nicknamed Cactus Valley.

There is so much more to see in the areas around San Pedro de Atacama but as my next destination is a 3 day tour into Bolivia incorporating the Salar de Uyuni I decided to save the rest of my scenic viewing until then and spent my final day in San Pedro just chilling. Sometimes it can be nice during travelling to take a step back and relax before undertaking the next activity.

For the last few days there has been a French man staying in my hostel who is deaf. He is travelling the world for 3 years and is currently 1 year into his adventure. I could not help but feel extremely sorry for him as he struggled so badly to communicate with the women working in the hostel. It got me thinking how hard it must be for him to meet and interact with fellow travellers, which is the greatest part of backpacking. But it is wonderful that he is not letting his disability hold him back from following his passion. I think we all struggle to put things in perspective, its just a human trait. However I will try to keep this in mind when I am possibly suffering from altitude sickness during my first night in Bolivia.

Chile will see me again, but tomorrow it's Destination Bolivia!

Valparaíso, Chile

After gobbling down one last Argentinian steak I set off on a trip through the Andes to my next destination, Valparaíso, the cultural capital of Chile. Compared to recent journeys the bus trip was very short, a mere 8 and a half hours. The scenery en route was spectacular comprising a long gradual ascent to the Argentina/ Chile border, situated at an altitude of 3200 metres above sea level followed by a steep quick descent down 27 hairpin bends. The actual border crossing was a pain in the backside, making the USA/ Canada entry route seem like nothing but a simple formality. Along with the necessary paperwork having to be filled out all bags were taken off the bus and searched thoroughly. About 50 minutes was spent at the border, and the queue was not even very long. It does not bare thinking how much time would be wasted on a busy day. While waiting for my bag I got talking to a couple of girls from England who informed me that they needed to pretend they were from Scotland due to severe hassle English people are given at that particular border. They still haven't got over the Falklands War, so a heads up to any English people planning on leaving Argentina via this particular point!

Designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 2003, Valparaiso is every bit as beautiful as Paraty in Brazil and Colonia in Uruguay, but in its own unique way. The city is built on 42 hills (or cerros as they are referred to here) so steep that at times steps or ascensores (incline elevators) are required to climb them. The main historical centre is situated on Cerro Concepcion and Cerro Alegre. Here you will find numerous narrow winding hilly cobblestoned streets surrounded by brightly coloured houses and buildings, each one a different colour to the next. The main attraction is simply to roam around and admire the many lane ways, something which will bring the photographer out in most people. It is simply the most colourful town I have ever seen. And then there is the graffiti. Usually I am not a fan of such art work and in most places it is an eyesore, but in Valparaiso it only adds to the colour of this charming city. But it is not just the historical centre which will amaze the tourist, the rest of the city is just as picturesque with bright colourful houses stretching for miles over the city's many hills. It really is a site to behold. Supposedly each resident of Valparaiso is being encouraged to paint the exterior of their home a bright colour, in keeping with the city's history.

I'm not sure if Valparaiso has a nickname but if not then it should be called "The Maze". This city is without doubt the most difficult place to navigate that I have ever experienced. Even with the aid of a detailed map (something which is a rarity out here it seems) you are destined to find yourself lost on numerous occasions throughout the day, and wonder how on earth you will ever return to your place of accommodation. But that only adds to the fun of aimlessly wandering the city's streets.

One aspect of Chile that takes a bit of time to get used to is its currency, the Chilean Peso. 676 of this crazy money is worth one shiny Euro. It really feels odd handing over a couple of grand for a 2 litre bottle of water and a packet of Lays crisps!

After the immense steak I experienced in Argentina over the last three weeks, the variety in Chile is a massive disappointment in comparison. Granted I have only eaten one so far and more will need to be consumed before a proper opinion is formed, but on first impressions it lags far behind its bigger South American brother. If Argentinian steak is Manchester United, then the Chilean beef is Huddersfield Town. Or perhaps Liverpool would be a more appropriate comparison given the current shambolics going on at Anfield!

Tonight I begin a 25 hour bus (can't beat a good bus!) up through the Atacama Desert to the little town of San Pedro de Atacama where I will take in the natural beauty of the surrounding areas.

Talk later

Mendoza, Argentina

After another crazy long bus journey I arrived in Mendoza, the wine capital of Argentina. The region around Greater Mendoza is the largest wine producing area in Latin America . As such, Mendoza is one of nine cities worldwide in the network of Great Capitals of Wine, and the city is an emerging wine tourism destination and base for exploring the hundreds of wineries in the region.

Given this city's reputation my short time here was always going to be centered around alcohol. On my first day in the city I took a bus out to the nearby suburb of Maipu. From there I rented a bicycle from a bike rental shop named Mr Hugo's. The purpose of the bike? As a means of transportation from one winery to the next. The concept is something I found very strange - head to a winery, taste various types of wine, then back on the bike and off to the next one. A winery crawl if you will.... on bikes! Very bizarre indeed especially considering the erratic nature of the local drivers but it is the done thing over here. After sampling the various wines in a few different wineries I decided a change of scenery was needed. To me wine is wine and after a few tastes it all begins to taste the same and very generic. So off I went to a chocolate house. Here one could sample the various homemade chocolates as well as the locally made liquors, one of them being Absinthe, the infamous 75% volume drink from hell. Logic says I should have walked away but where would be the fun in that? The full shot was swilled and immediately afterwards I vowed never to let that tripe pass my lips again! After this I cycled back to Mr Hugo's where we were treated to numerous complimentary glasses of wine. Mr Hugo himself is an absolute gent, a refreshing change from the Argentinian culture of ripping off tourists. For just 25 peso's (5 euro) I got a bike for rent along with all the wine I wanted afterwards and genuine hospitality. I could not recommend Mr Hugo enough to anybody interested in visiting Mendoza.

After awaking this morning with a rather sore head I took off on a tour called High Andes. The tour itself was somewhat disappointing. While the views were beautiful, a lot of time was spent sitting on a bus with not enough stops to take photos and go exploring. In addition too many of the stops were at shops and markets rather than at panoramic viewing areas, the classic tourist trap. In spite of these annoyances there were some highlights, in particular Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside of Asia. This giant stands tall at 6,962 metres above sea level and is a popular destination for mountain climbers from all over the world. To reach the top takes approximately 15 days, however I was informed that the record stands at a staggering 19 hours! No climbing for me however, just a nice view from far away.

Today's trip also gave me my first taste of altitude. We ascended to approximately 2,850 metres above sea level. I'm quite confident this is the highest I have ever been in my life so far. However with the Inca Trail, San Pedro de Atacama and possibly Salar de Uyuni still to come there are bigger fish to fry.

Tonight marks my last night in Argentina. Despite the fact that tourists are taken for a ride quite frequently in this country the positives far outweigh the few negatives. It really is a wonderful destination with immense natural beauty, of such different varieties. There is simply so much to see and do in Argentina. Tomorrow I take a short 8 hour bus through the Andes to Valparaiso in Chile. Another country, another crazy currency! 676 Chilean Peso's to the Euro.

Ciao

Bariloche, Argentina

After the wonderful wildlife of Puerto Madryn I took a 13 hour bus journey to San Carlos de Bariloche, in the north of Patagonia. Bariloche, as it is more commonly known, is situated on the foothills of the Andes and is a haven for outdoor activities. In winter it is the largest ski resort in South America, and in spring/ summer there is so much other activities available that one could easily spend many days here.

Firstly a quick word about the bus trip. During my stay in Puerto Madryn, myself and some fellow backpackers in the hostel debated as to the quality of food that would be provided on our bus journey. Based on my experience from Iguassu Falls to Buenos Aires I was adamant that the dinner would be of a high quality. Well I was wrong, in the most spectacular fashion! Firstly there was some sort of dry Milanese steak covered in a sort of batter, sitting on top of a very dodgy potato dauphinoise. Then there was a separate tray for the cold food that would accompany this main course. The centrepiece of this was of course, the Jamon and Queso sandwich. One layer of bread, one layer of low quality ham, one layer of bread, one layer of what was apparently cheese and one more layer of bread, all squashed very tightly together. Then there was some bread sticks that resembled dog bones, along with the smallest bread roll imaginable, with no butter, just mayonnaise. Last but not least, was cold rice, mixed with cold carrot, served in a cupcake! Possibly the worst dinner I have ever been given and after this debacle I have booked a "no food" bus for my journey to Mendoza.

As I had just three days in Bariloche I was never going to be able to do everything and so I prioritised. The first day was spent climbing to the top of Mount Otto. Starting out I thought it was going to be just another walking trail, but after just 5 minutes I realised that I had completely underestimated the climb. In total we climbed approximately 700 metres in altitude on an incredibly steep and slippy slope. It took me 1 hour 30 minutes to reach the top, but the route to there was torture. The first half of the climb I was suffering badly, legs were lacking in energy, and I had to take breaks regularly. As the altitude got higher and the weather colder this became less of an issue. Instead I had a bigger problem to face - staying on my feet! The slope of the mountain climb was 45 degrees and the surface was sand and gravel. This coupled with the fact I was wearing a pair of runners with absolutely no grip resulted in me falling on my arse quite a lot of the time. You´d swear I´d had a couple of bottles of Argentina´s finest wine if you saw me! Eventually I dragged myself to the top and the views of the surrounding mountains and lakes made my efforts worth it. But it certainly was one of the most, if not the most draining thing I have ever done. I have every respect for mountain climbers after that. Either that or I need to get proper climbing shoes!

The next day was spent kayaking on Lake Gutierrez, something I hadn´t done in about 12 or 13 years. It was a thoroughly enjoyable experience. The weather was perfect and the scenery was incredible with numerous snow-capped mountains surrounding the lake. As I was operating a double kayak with another person, we swapped positions half way through. I have to say I enjoyed being at the front of the kayak much more, as when at the back I had the responsibility of steering the boat, something which I could not get to grips with very well it has to be admitted.

Today was spent cycling around the lakes and mountains on the outskirts of the city. No sooner had we rented the mountain bikes when the weather changed dramatically. What started off being a beautiful sunny morning had become a windy, cold and rainy afternoon, which not only made our cycle all the more difficult but also spoiled what should have been some impressive views of the local scenery. The bike ride itself was approximately 25km´s but I would have severe doubts about that. It seemed so much longer and the route was filled with numerous hills, each one more punishing than what came before. It was all too much for my fellow backpacker, from England, who refused to attempt even the slightest incline, and therefore resorted to walking with his bike for almost half the journey. Mark Cavendish would not be proud of such efforts!

One bizarre thing about Bariloche is the large amount of chocolate shops in the centre of the town, each with an enormous variety on offer. You would be forgiven for thinking you were in the heartland of Belgium!

Tonight I intend to gobble down yet another Argentine steak. My time in Argentina is running out and so I have vowed to indulge in such pleasure each night for the rest of my stay in this country. Tomorrow I get yet another bus, this time a 19 hour spin northwards to the vineyards of Mendoza, the last part of the Argentinian leg of my trip, where all the benefits of my recent fitness work will be completely undone.

Take it easy.

Puerto Madryn, Argentina

From El Calafate I took a 26 hour bus journey to Puerto Madryn, incorporating a 2 hour stopover in Rio Gallegos. It was for the most part a very uneventful and uninspiring journey. The scenery up through Eastern Patagonia was not even close to what I witnessed in the south of the region and the total trip seemed to take an eternity.

There was however one interesting moment towards the end of the bus ride. When purchasing my ticket I was informed that the bus from Rio Gallegos to Puerto Madryn would be direct and would not require me to change buses at any point. Happy days, or so I thought. Then we get to this town called Trelew about one hour from my destination and the bus stops. I inquire whether I need to get off here and I am told no as Puerto Madryn is still an hour away. For twenty minutes the bus is stopped and I am one of the very few remaining on it. Then on comes the bus conductor who eventually informs me that I am supposed to be on another vehicle for the duration of my trip, pointing to the bus I need to catch, which is about to take off. Understandably pissed off I rush out and demand that the bus driver gives me my bag so I can transfer it to the next bus. After a couple of minutes of serious language barrier enhanced confusion he informs me that my bag has already been transferred to the new bus on my behalf. I don´t believe him for a second. I need visual evidence of this. So in I go to the bag compartment, searching frantically, and no sign of it at all. Very angry I demand them to find my bag. The driver brings me over to some other random bus and sure of course there it is! The destination of this automobile? Paraguay for all I know! When I asked him why my bag had been put on the wrong bus he stared back blankly at me. Demanding an explanation I asked was it a mistake, to which his response was "si senior, mistake"! Anyway they gave me a complimentary ham and cheese sandwich (more about that below) and a 7up and all was forgiven.

Puerto Madryn is a nice beach town but like El Calafate there really is not a whole lot to do in the place. Again it was a base for me to explore the surrounding areas. My first day was a complete write off as I was feeling very under the weather, perhaps due to the long bus ride. The following day I journeyed out to Puerto Piramides on the Península Valdés to catch a boat for an hour and a half of whale watching. It was a phenomenal experience witnessing these giant mammals so close to our boat. These southern right whales spend the summer months in the far Southern Ocean feeding, probably close to Antarctica and migrate north in winter for breeding which is why they can be seen in such huge numbers around the Península Valdés during this time. The one disappointment was that they didn't do any of their iconic spectacular jumping for us. The sea was very calm and so they were in ultimate chilled out mode and did a lot of sleeping.

Another piece of amazing wildlife that I enjoyed during my stay here was my visit to Punta Tombo to see the largest penguin colony in the world. Between September and April, a large number of Magellanic penguins come to this site to breed and prepare their offspring for migration. There are literally penguins everywhere you look, approximately 500,000 in total throughout the area. Each couple has their own little nest (basically a burrow in the ground) and they spend a lot of time just standing around in front of it to protect the eggs from birds and other predators. Besides this all they seem to do is eat, sleep, mate and occasionally howl for no reason at all. It really is a tough life! Fascinating little animals they are.

After the penguins I had a short stopover in the small town of Gaiman. The town was founded in 1874 by settlers from Wales and the place to this day has a huge Welsh influence with several hundred people conserving the use of the Welsh language. There are numerous old buildings and Welsh tea houses making the town quite pleasant to walk around. However unless you are Welsh then one or two hours here is enough.

Before I go I feel obliged to mention what seems to be an obsession in South America in general, and Argentina in particular - The Ham and Cheese Sandwich! Yes the locals love a good ham and cheese, or a Jamon y Queso as they like to call it. Ham and cheese is literally everywhere. If you order a burger, steak sandwich, chicken or indeed anything the ham and cheese is included with the main course unless you state that you do not want this inconvenience. Every bus or flight that you take here will also include a complimentary sandwich of the ham and cheese variety. Enough with the Jamon y Queso please!!!

Tonight I take an overnight bus to Bariloche where I will enjoy a couple of days of the many outdoor activities the place has to offer.

Ciao

Perito Moreno Glacier/ El Calafate/ El Chalten, Argentina

After the thrills and spills of Buenos Aires I took a two and a half hour flight to El Calafate in the heart of Patagonia, towards the very south of the Country. From the moment we started descending towards the airport I knew I was in for something special over the coming days. The views were incredible.


El Calafate is a nice town with some cute cottage style houses but there isn´t really a whole lot to do there. It was merely a place to base myself as I went discovering the natural beauty of the surrounding areas.


The highlight was without any doubt the Perito Moreno Glacier, situated in Los Glaciares National Park, about 70km´s from El Calafate. It was possibly the most spectacular piece of natural scenery I have ever seen. This glacier is one of only three Patagonian glaciers that is growing in size. The terminus of the Perito Moreno Glacier is 5 kilometres wide, with an average height of 74 m above the surface of the water of Lake Argentino. It has a total ice depth of 170 metres. Every so often part of the glacier breaks off and creates an incredibly loud thunder like sound. Furthermore the natural surroundings make the glacier all the more spectacular, with a backdrop of snow capped mountains, forests and gorgeous bright blue lakes with the sun glistening against it. I was very fortunate that the weather was bright and sunny which only added to the viewing pleasure.


After spending a few hours walking around the various viewing trails, I took a short boat ride which brought me up even closer to the glacier. The views from the boat were spectacular with many icebergs located in the lake surrounding Perito Moreno.


Once the boat journey had concluded I began the highlight of the day. With the help of crampons I undertook a one and a half hour hike through the glacier itself. It was quite an experience walking on such an enormous piece of ice and experiencing its many crevices, lakes and mini waterfalls, all of which changes frequently as the glacier advances. It really is a photographers dream. At the end of the trek we were given a complementary glass of Famous Grouse, on the rocks. Usually I don´t enjoy the Grouse, especially when consumed in shot format, but this occasion was different as our guide used the ice from the glacier to enhance our drinks. Certainly the nicest glass of whisky I´ve ever had.


The following day I took a trip to El Chalten where I hoped to catch a glimpse of the famous Fitz Roy mountain and experience a couple of the supposedly beautiful treks the place has to offer. Sadly the weather was not quite as kind as it was the day before. No sooner had I arrived in the village I was greeted with horrible rain, freezing cold and extremely strong winds. I was completely unprepared for such conditions. No water proof clothes, no water proof hiking shoes, nothing! I attempted one of the trails for 25 minutes before I made the sensible decision to turn back, and save myself the hassle of a bout of pneumonia. It was disappointing but after the sensational weather the day before I really cannot complain.


Patagonia is simply an amazing place. The scenery is breathtaking with many mountains and its deserted landscape with limited rough vegetation. It is one of those places that you don´t get bored looking out the window during a bus journey. This is something I will be very thankful of over the next day as I am about to embark on a 24 hour bus journey to Puerto Madryn, where I will banter away with penguins and whales. A combination of the scenery, music, Spanish lessons on my Ipod, and Paula Radcliffe´s autobiography should be enough to keep me sane.


Later

Buenos Aires, Argentina

After a relaxing few days in Uruguay I endured an exhausting night journey to Buenos Aires, incorporating  a two hour bus from Montevideo to Colonia and then a three hour boat across the Rio de la Plata. The reason I decided to travel at such a ridiculous time of the day? Because the boat company charges tourists twice as much as locals, and so the overnight option was the only reasonably cheap way of reaching Buenos Aires! The trip to Argentina´s capital may have been horrific and for much of the next day I suffered from exhaustion, but it was very much worth the pain, as there is much to see and do in this energetic city.

Firstly there is La Boca, one of the city´s many neighbourhoods. The pedestrian street of Caminito is a beautiful sight with its buildings painted in a variety of bright colours. The area is buzzing with street footballers and tango dancers, one of whom tried her utmost to get me to dance with her. When I asked her would this privilege be provided free of charge she shook her head in disgust. A serious chancer, trying to squeeze money from a vulnerable tourist! Caminito also gave me a glimpse of the popularity of a certain Diego Armando Maradona. Everywhere you walk in the Caminito area of La Boca there are statues and paintings devoted to the great man. It is often said that he is seen as a god like figure in Argentina and after wandering through this neighbourhood I can say that there is 100% truth to that. Caminito however is incredibly touristy, with many restaurants charging double that of other parts of the city and even other parts of La Boca. But it is inadvisable to go to a different part of this neighbourhood in search of a cheap deal. It really isn´t the most delightful side of town and on too many occasions tourists have been robbed at knifepoint, because they wandered away from the safe Caminito area. Some people are too stupid to follow advice I guess!

Another impressive part of the city is the Centre, and Avenida 9 de Julio in particular, supposedly the widest avenue in the World, with seven lanes in each direction and an approximate width of 100 metres. This road is absolute mayhem and it takes a fair bit of time to get from one side to the other in a safe manner. Then there is Recoleta, with its impressive cemetery. This is a place where the rich splash their cash on a fancy place to rest. Hardly the best way to spend ones money I would have thought. This isn´t your usual graveyard. In this cemetery each family has their own little building where they will be laid to rest, and the architecture of most of these are very impressive. One of the most famous inhabitants of Recoleta cemetery is Eva (Evita) Peron, Argentina’s First Lady from 1946 until her death in 1952. After Evita’s body was recovered from an Italian graveyard where it was under a false name and traveled almost through half of Europe it was finally deposited in the Duarte family’s grave, where it still rests, in a simple dark marble burial vault.

There are three things that every visitor to Buenos Aires needs to experience: Football, Tango and Steak.

Football: After seeing a football game in Rio de Janeiro I had a good idea of what to expect when I visited La Bombonera to see Boca Juniors play. The Argentines are every bit as passionate and as crazy about the sport as their Brazilian counterparts. The people behind one of the goals literally did not stop singing for the entire game. Even when the opposition team scored they did not pause, not even for a few seconds. It makes you wonder are they even watching the game at all, and do they even care about the result, or do they just show up to sing and chant really loudly and just in general be all round lunatics. At one point the entire stand behind the goal were jumping up and down simultaneously. It really was a sight to behold. Some people were covered by large flags for the entire game. They didn't seem to care. If I paid to go to a football match and my view of the action was hindered for the entire 90 minutes I would be well pissed off. I am convinced that some of these people do not go to the stadium to watch the game! In any case the fans left the ground unhappy as the visiting team (who´s name escapes me) scored an injury time penalty to take the win. It was an enjoyable experience, but I cannot help thinking I was ripped off. 270 pesos for a 40 peso ticket. This city has a habit at times of ripping tourists off!

Tango: If the football game was a bit on the expensive side, my experience of Tango was on the opposite end of the spectrum. For 200 pesos (40 euro), I got a 45 minute lesson in basic tango (VERY VERY basic stuff), a 3 course meal incorporating a delicious steak, and all the wine you can drink, along with an impressive tango show. I wouldn´t be the biggest dance enthusiast but couldn´t help but be impressed by the style, grace and romance of one of Argentina´s favourite pastimes.

Steak: Four days in Buenos Aires, four steaks. Argentinian steak in my opinion has completely lived up to its reputation of being the finest in the world. I have never eaten in Shanahans restaurant in Dublin, but after my experience in the Federal Capital, I don´t think I ever could. In fact I just don´t think I could look at Irish Steak in the same way again. Nothing has ever compared to what they have here.

However Buenos Aires also has its dark side. South America gets a lot of bad publicity about muggings and pickpocketers. However, it is not humans who have robbed me in Buenos Aires, but in fact ATM machines! Yes, these evil pieces of technology provided me with counterfeit money. Upon realising that I was being had I marched straight over to the bank (HSBC would you believe, not just any oul bank!!) and showed them my receipt of my transaction and told the lady about my unfortunate experience. Well she was having none of it. She insisted that it was "not possible" for fake notes to come out of their ATM machines. This of course led to a 5 minute argument, but she stood her ground. Eventually after resigning myself to the fact that nothing was going to come of my efforts I stormed off out of the bank. Afterwards I was told by one of the locals that the banks know that their machines give out the occasional artificial bill, but play innocent and refuse to ever take responsibility. A bunch of serious scam artists. In addition I was charged for two transactions worth 118 euro each when in fact I only made one, and now will have to go through an annoying long process to get that money back off my bank back in Ireland.

That experience has somewhat soured my opinion of the city, but in spite of that I very much enjoyed my time in the capital of Argentina.

My next destination is El Calafate, in Patagonia, down towards the very south of the nation, where I will check out one of the world´s great glaciers.

Until then, take it handy.