Valparaíso, Chile

After gobbling down one last Argentinian steak I set off on a trip through the Andes to my next destination, Valparaíso, the cultural capital of Chile. Compared to recent journeys the bus trip was very short, a mere 8 and a half hours. The scenery en route was spectacular comprising a long gradual ascent to the Argentina/ Chile border, situated at an altitude of 3200 metres above sea level followed by a steep quick descent down 27 hairpin bends. The actual border crossing was a pain in the backside, making the USA/ Canada entry route seem like nothing but a simple formality. Along with the necessary paperwork having to be filled out all bags were taken off the bus and searched thoroughly. About 50 minutes was spent at the border, and the queue was not even very long. It does not bare thinking how much time would be wasted on a busy day. While waiting for my bag I got talking to a couple of girls from England who informed me that they needed to pretend they were from Scotland due to severe hassle English people are given at that particular border. They still haven't got over the Falklands War, so a heads up to any English people planning on leaving Argentina via this particular point!

Designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 2003, Valparaiso is every bit as beautiful as Paraty in Brazil and Colonia in Uruguay, but in its own unique way. The city is built on 42 hills (or cerros as they are referred to here) so steep that at times steps or ascensores (incline elevators) are required to climb them. The main historical centre is situated on Cerro Concepcion and Cerro Alegre. Here you will find numerous narrow winding hilly cobblestoned streets surrounded by brightly coloured houses and buildings, each one a different colour to the next. The main attraction is simply to roam around and admire the many lane ways, something which will bring the photographer out in most people. It is simply the most colourful town I have ever seen. And then there is the graffiti. Usually I am not a fan of such art work and in most places it is an eyesore, but in Valparaiso it only adds to the colour of this charming city. But it is not just the historical centre which will amaze the tourist, the rest of the city is just as picturesque with bright colourful houses stretching for miles over the city's many hills. It really is a site to behold. Supposedly each resident of Valparaiso is being encouraged to paint the exterior of their home a bright colour, in keeping with the city's history.

I'm not sure if Valparaiso has a nickname but if not then it should be called "The Maze". This city is without doubt the most difficult place to navigate that I have ever experienced. Even with the aid of a detailed map (something which is a rarity out here it seems) you are destined to find yourself lost on numerous occasions throughout the day, and wonder how on earth you will ever return to your place of accommodation. But that only adds to the fun of aimlessly wandering the city's streets.

One aspect of Chile that takes a bit of time to get used to is its currency, the Chilean Peso. 676 of this crazy money is worth one shiny Euro. It really feels odd handing over a couple of grand for a 2 litre bottle of water and a packet of Lays crisps!

After the immense steak I experienced in Argentina over the last three weeks, the variety in Chile is a massive disappointment in comparison. Granted I have only eaten one so far and more will need to be consumed before a proper opinion is formed, but on first impressions it lags far behind its bigger South American brother. If Argentinian steak is Manchester United, then the Chilean beef is Huddersfield Town. Or perhaps Liverpool would be a more appropriate comparison given the current shambolics going on at Anfield!

Tonight I begin a 25 hour bus (can't beat a good bus!) up through the Atacama Desert to the little town of San Pedro de Atacama where I will take in the natural beauty of the surrounding areas.

Talk later