Bariloche, Argentina

After the wonderful wildlife of Puerto Madryn I took a 13 hour bus journey to San Carlos de Bariloche, in the north of Patagonia. Bariloche, as it is more commonly known, is situated on the foothills of the Andes and is a haven for outdoor activities. In winter it is the largest ski resort in South America, and in spring/ summer there is so much other activities available that one could easily spend many days here.

Firstly a quick word about the bus trip. During my stay in Puerto Madryn, myself and some fellow backpackers in the hostel debated as to the quality of food that would be provided on our bus journey. Based on my experience from Iguassu Falls to Buenos Aires I was adamant that the dinner would be of a high quality. Well I was wrong, in the most spectacular fashion! Firstly there was some sort of dry Milanese steak covered in a sort of batter, sitting on top of a very dodgy potato dauphinoise. Then there was a separate tray for the cold food that would accompany this main course. The centrepiece of this was of course, the Jamon and Queso sandwich. One layer of bread, one layer of low quality ham, one layer of bread, one layer of what was apparently cheese and one more layer of bread, all squashed very tightly together. Then there was some bread sticks that resembled dog bones, along with the smallest bread roll imaginable, with no butter, just mayonnaise. Last but not least, was cold rice, mixed with cold carrot, served in a cupcake! Possibly the worst dinner I have ever been given and after this debacle I have booked a "no food" bus for my journey to Mendoza.

As I had just three days in Bariloche I was never going to be able to do everything and so I prioritised. The first day was spent climbing to the top of Mount Otto. Starting out I thought it was going to be just another walking trail, but after just 5 minutes I realised that I had completely underestimated the climb. In total we climbed approximately 700 metres in altitude on an incredibly steep and slippy slope. It took me 1 hour 30 minutes to reach the top, but the route to there was torture. The first half of the climb I was suffering badly, legs were lacking in energy, and I had to take breaks regularly. As the altitude got higher and the weather colder this became less of an issue. Instead I had a bigger problem to face - staying on my feet! The slope of the mountain climb was 45 degrees and the surface was sand and gravel. This coupled with the fact I was wearing a pair of runners with absolutely no grip resulted in me falling on my arse quite a lot of the time. You´d swear I´d had a couple of bottles of Argentina´s finest wine if you saw me! Eventually I dragged myself to the top and the views of the surrounding mountains and lakes made my efforts worth it. But it certainly was one of the most, if not the most draining thing I have ever done. I have every respect for mountain climbers after that. Either that or I need to get proper climbing shoes!

The next day was spent kayaking on Lake Gutierrez, something I hadn´t done in about 12 or 13 years. It was a thoroughly enjoyable experience. The weather was perfect and the scenery was incredible with numerous snow-capped mountains surrounding the lake. As I was operating a double kayak with another person, we swapped positions half way through. I have to say I enjoyed being at the front of the kayak much more, as when at the back I had the responsibility of steering the boat, something which I could not get to grips with very well it has to be admitted.

Today was spent cycling around the lakes and mountains on the outskirts of the city. No sooner had we rented the mountain bikes when the weather changed dramatically. What started off being a beautiful sunny morning had become a windy, cold and rainy afternoon, which not only made our cycle all the more difficult but also spoiled what should have been some impressive views of the local scenery. The bike ride itself was approximately 25km´s but I would have severe doubts about that. It seemed so much longer and the route was filled with numerous hills, each one more punishing than what came before. It was all too much for my fellow backpacker, from England, who refused to attempt even the slightest incline, and therefore resorted to walking with his bike for almost half the journey. Mark Cavendish would not be proud of such efforts!

One bizarre thing about Bariloche is the large amount of chocolate shops in the centre of the town, each with an enormous variety on offer. You would be forgiven for thinking you were in the heartland of Belgium!

Tonight I intend to gobble down yet another Argentine steak. My time in Argentina is running out and so I have vowed to indulge in such pleasure each night for the rest of my stay in this country. Tomorrow I get yet another bus, this time a 19 hour spin northwards to the vineyards of Mendoza, the last part of the Argentinian leg of my trip, where all the benefits of my recent fitness work will be completely undone.

Take it easy.