I have certainly been one to complain about modern buildings being far uglier than their predecessors and in my previous blogs the cities of Santiago and Montevideo got a verbal trashing with regards to this. As a general rule; the older the city, the more beautiful it is. However Melbourne is an example of a modern metropolis which can provide an exception to such general guidelines. The city is simply stunning with a countless number of large urban parks, giving one the feel that you are a million miles away from an area that houses almost 4 million people. There is simply no shortage of places in Melbourne where one can escape for a picnic or a kick around, with Fitzroy Gardens, Carlton Gardens, Albert Park and the most beautiful of all, the Royal Botanic Gardens being among the most popular.
Situated very close to the centre of the city, the Royal Botanic Gardens provides 38 hectares of landscaped gardens consisting of a mix of native and non-native vegetation including over 10,000 individual species. Heaven for nature lovers. For me however, the Gardens provide a different attraction: the world famous Tan Track, more affectionately known to Melbourne natives as "The Tan". This is a 3.827 kilometre tan coloured stone surfaced marked running trail which circumnavigates the Royal Botanic Gardens. Easily the most popular part of Melbourne for runners and joggers, this trail attracts hundreds of people a day, of all shapes and sizes. It is not just the average Joe who uses this fantastic facility however. Many running legends such as Steve Ovett, Hicham El Guerrouj and Sonia O'Sullivan have rubbed shoulders with the general public on The Tan. To date my personal best for the course is 16 minutes 44 seconds, a time I expect to improve upon come the winter road running season.
There are two specific areas which provide a stunning view of Melbourne. The first being from the top of the Shrine of Remembrance, an attractive building dedicated to all Australians who lost their lives in World Wars I and II. From here you get the most perfect perspective of just how green Melbourne is with its many parks visible well into the distance. The other area that brings me personal viewing pleasure is on the bridge crossing over the Yarra river from the Royal Botanic Gardens to the various sports stadiums and arenas in Richmond. On a sunny day there are very few urban places that can compare to this: the amazing Gardens on the left, the iconic Melbourne Cricket Ground on the right, the Yarra meandering ahead, and the city's modern skyscrapers watching over all this from a distance. It is the perfect combination of nature and modern infrastructure, a fusion of old and new.
Although the city is less than 200 years old, it still boasts some impressive architecture. Now of course it is never going to rival anything Cusco, Stockholm or Edinburgh have to offer but considering the lack of history in Australia this is hardly surprising. Among the most picturesque is Flinders Street Station. This flashy yellow bricked building has long been the meeting point for Melbournians who congregate "under the clocks", referring to the row of clocks above the main entrance. Other attractive buildings include St Paul's Cathedral, the Parliament of Victoria, and the Royal Exhibition Building, the last of which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
However, as previously mentioned, what this city does better than most is its ability to mix old with new, and right across the street from this century old railway station is Federation Square, the futuristic and artsy civic centre of Melbourne. This area plays host to many concerts that celebrate the mix of cultures in Australia and also has a big screen, allowing sports mad people to congregate to watch the big events together. In my humble opinion Federation Square forms a perfect contrast to nearby Flinders Street Station and St Paul's Cathedral, and this mix of ancient and modern works very well.
Another highlight of Melbourne is the sports district as I like to call it, situated in Richmond. Within this area you will find most of the city's big sports stadia and arenas. The Melbourne Cricket Ground takes centre stage of course, but there is also the Melbourne Park tennis grounds, Rod Laver Arena, Hisense Arena, Olympic Park, AAMI Arena along with some smaller sports and training grounds, all within a couple of hundred metres of the Yarra River and the numerous park lands nearby. As a sports fanatic this is obviously my favourite part of the city. Melbourne simply couldn't have picked a better setting for its favourite past time.
This city also provides a vibrant bar scene with Brunswick Street, Acland Street, Fitzroy Street and Chapel Street being the most popular, providing so much choice for one's drinking and live music needs. It's just a shame that the price of alcohol is so expensive and I would recommend anybody travelling here for a holiday to get their ticker checked out before arriving, as 10 dollars for a pint of Carlton Draught in certain places could bring on severe palpitations for the unprepared and unwarned tourist.
Melbourne is not particularly known for its beaches and the hugely touristy St Kilda Beach is one of the most unremarkable parts of the city I have seen to date. Perhaps the reason why more Irish people flock to Sydney rather than its younger and brighter brother (in my opinion) is due to that city having much more so called better beaches. However Brighton Beach, located just 30 minutes by train from the city centre, provides Melbourne with a hidden gem, one which rivals Sydney's Manly Beach in terms of beauty, and which wipes the floor with Bondi Beach, one of the world's most overrated places. Brighton Beach is not particularly touristy with very few bars and restaurants within walking distance from the shore, but rather is a place where the locals like to chill with their family after a hard working week. What makes this rather upmarket beach so special however is the numerous multi-coloured beach huts which run parallel to the shore. This is an area which would bring the photographer out in even the most unenthusiastic person.
Last weekend I journeyed out to the suburb of Sandringham where I accidentally encountered the stunning Red Bluff, a steep cliff filled with fascinating rock formations. There was literally not a tourist in sight and indeed my housemate who has lived in Melbourne for years said to me that he has never even heard of the place. It is little gems like this that I will continue to search for over my remaining time in this magnificent city.
Bye for now.
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